September 2020 – Matt's Italian Playlist

I will admit that I am one of those people who keeps thousands of photos on my phone for a few reasons. One is that I am just too lazy to upload them to the computer and in some way I am nervous that if I upload them and delete them from my phone, anything could happen and those photos will be lost forever. The second reason is that I love having at my fingertips thousands of memories. Scrolling through my photos gives me comfort and helps me appreciate all the things I have, the people in my life and the experiences I’ve had.

Right now, travel has been put on hold due to Covid-19 but that shouldn’t stop us from making future plans because this will get better, we will travel again. So maybe now is a good time to start doing some research on places you’d like to visit. If you’re thinking of visiting Italy ( I mean, who isn’t?), I’ve got another hidden gem for you to check out: Suvereto.

Suvereto, is a small medieval village in central Tuscany in the Val di Cornia. It is located about 98 miles south of Florence and 52 miles south of Livorno. It takes its name from the latin suber , or cork wood, because of the many cork oak trees that surround the area. The first mention of this village goes back to 973 according to their town history. Its stone walls and streets will transport you back in time and make you feel at home, all at the same time.

Looking out from our private yard

I am always looking to visit small towns or villages in Italy after the main tourist attractions. It’s a way to see the “real” Italy and gain a deeper appreciation for what it really means to live La dolce vita. Major cities like Rome, Venice and Florence are favorite destinations for a reason but there is just something about slowing down and exploring areas not overrun (for now!) by hordes of tourists. The association, I borghi più belli d’Italia (The most beautiful villages of Italy), which was created in 2001 to promote tourism and appreciation of all the beauty, culture, and history small towns in Italy have to offer, has Suvereto as one of their featured towns. Check it out here.

I came across Suvereto when I was doing some research on where to stay if I wanted to visit the island of Elba but have a home base on the mainland. My goal was to take a ferry from Piombino to Elba to celebrate my birthday but wanted to stay somewhere charming. I had originally found an apartment to rent in Caldana but after messaging back and forth with the owner and having some troubles, I had to scrap that place and start over. I searched the airbnb site for places to stay near Caldana and came across this listing. The apartment itself seemed to fit our needs and price range so I started to look into the town of Suvereto. What I can say now is that I am so glad I had so many issues with the place in Caldana that forced me to cancel and find Domenico’s apartment.

First of all, Domenico was easy to work with, and was very accomodating from the get-go. I’m not sure if he speaks English since I communicated with him in Italian, but I am sure that he must speak some English since I see that after being the first Americans to stay in his place, there was another couple from America that stayed there. His place has everything you can need, 2 bedrooms, a bathroom with a tub, a kitchen, living room and the best part- a gorgeous private garden! Parking is nearby and free and the apartment is located right in the heart of the town. It’s only a few minutes walk before you reach the main road and piazza.

Suvereto has many restaurants to keep you happily fed for the entire time you are there. However, there was one pizzeria which we loved for the pizza and for the fact that it was located in what used to be a movie theater! The upstairs of Bar Torrione Pizzeria Spaghetteria da Gegè still has movie theater seats in the upper level, if you eat inside. Of course, we ate inside and outside! With two kids, pizza is always one of the best options.

Another really happy coincidence was that we happened to be staying the week that Suvereto hosts Serate medievali or Medieval Nights every year in July. We just happened to be staying there the right week! Each evening, the town transforms into a medieval town, burlap over the street lights, parades of people in costumes, medieval games, food and a different show each night. One night, we were entertained by a fire breathing, tight-rope walking performer followed by a medieval procession and dancing after eating probably the best sausage sandwich. A really nice touch is that you are able to exchange your euros for medieval coins to pay for the food or games.

During the day, thanks to Domenico’s suggestion, we visited nearby Baratti beach. This beach along the Etruscan coast is well-known to locals but is well worth your trip there. On one side, you have the gorgeous, clear water of the Gulf of Baratti, which when you look close looks as if it is shimmering with the metals that were once mined by the Etruscans, and other side a pine forest. Parking is available for pay at the beach. There are also two restaurants on site. You will have to bring your own umbrellas and chairs, however. If you’re visiting in the summer, Baratti is a must!

Other day trips we made from our home base in Suvereto are Livorno, the capital of the province, Volterra, Sovana, Sorano and the island of Elba. These are certainly not an exhaustive list of possibilities but we only had a week there.

Livorno, the provincial capital was a nice day trip and only about an hour drive north. We easily parked on the street and just walked around the area near the water to discover what Livorno had to offer. We found the Terrazza Mascagni to be a nice first stop where we could walk along the water while taking in incredible views and do some people-watching. There were bathers, fishers and of course other people just walking along the terrace as we did. We stopped nearby for a bite to eat, but I will say this, if you are afraid of birds (as I am), you might want to eat inside if you’re near the water! Our next stop was the aquarium. The aquarium was well-organized and not overwhelming to visit. The kids had a blast!

Terrazza Mascagni, Livorno

Another day trip was to Volterra, another Etruscan hilltop town. Some may recognize Volterra from Stephenie Meyer’s Twilight series. Luckily, we did not encounter any vampires, but we did have a nice day just walking around and taking in the city. Once you climb the stairs to enter the walled city, you can easily walk through the city. There are plenty of restaurants and shops to keep you busy for the whole day. We were happy to just wander around and enjoy the city vibe but if you like more info on the many things to see, check out this post from Discover Tuscany.

Volterra

I had read about the Vie cave or the excavated roads made by the Etruscans of the tufa rock. We started by visiting the tiny town of Sovana. Here, we walked through the one road town and visited the Museo di Mamiliano, where you can find the bones of Saint Mamiliano. We also went into a shop that specialized in alabaster products, which are well-known in this area. We made a few purchases to bring home as gifts and then headed out to explore the Vie cave. I will admit they were a bit difficult to find driving but we eventually did and were able to walk through some of these ancient roads that pre-date the Romans.

Finally, we did get to visit the island of Elba. We booked the ferry ride with Corsica-Sardinia Ferries easily. We did take our car on the ferry since after reading up on Elba, it seemed to reach certain areas, especially some of the best beaches, we would need a car. We did walk around the port area and the downtown area a bit but our real goal was to have a beach day. The drive to Scaglieri beach was a bit scary for my wife but once we got down to the beach, everyone was so helpful and welcoming. The parking attendants right across from the beach took the car, and also set us up with umbrellas and chairs for four for just about $50! The beach did not disappoint! The water was amazing! It was a sandy beach with crystal-clear water. My kids met a local around their age who they played with until we went to eat something at the beach restaurant. The restaurant had something for everyone, was economical, delicious and gorgeous views of the beach. Our day could not have been more perfect. We boarded our return ferry and headed back to Suvereto that evening.

Unfortunately, our vacation had to come to an end and we had to head back to reality but making Suvereto a home away from home may one day become a reality. My wife and I have often discussed owning a home in Italy but we were never really sure where. We have family spread out all over Italy and we have traveled pretty extensively but could never really agree on where to make our Italian dream become a reality. Suvereto changed this. We don’t often agree on a decision this big but we can say that Suvereto has the feel of a small town we could see ourselves spending our time in while still being within driving distance to so many other towns waiting to be explored.

Choices of gelato at ViAle Gelateria

Gelato may be the Italian word for ice cream but gelato is not ice cream. And ViAle Gelateria in Lynbrook, New York is not like any other. If you happen to be anywhere near this Long Island town in western Nassau, a trip to ViAle is a must! Heck, even if you’re not near Lynbrook, it’s worth the trip. I don’t remember exactly how we came across this little gem. It might have been a post on social media or a little write up in a local paper. Whatever the reason, since the first time that I set foot in the gelateria, I haven’t found one equal to it.

Owner/ Gelato Chef Anna welcomes everyone to her gelateria

Of course the gelato itself is the main attraction but Anna Franchi, the gelatiere and owner. Anna welcomes you into her store as if you were old friends. She is truly happy to see you. You can see it in her smile; you can hear it in how she greets you. As her sign says, “Homemade with love.”

Anna Franchi was born and raised in a small town outside of Ferrara, Italy. After high school, she didn’t have the desire to continue on to university and instead she went to work in a surveyor’s office. She eventually met and started dating a man who was a gelatiere and he taught her how to make artisanal gelato. They soon would open up a gelateria in Ferrara, right across from the Duomo di Ferrara or main cathedral. The business started to go well and eventually expanded into a pasticceria, or pastry shop, as well. Unfortunately, after 13 years, their relationship suffered and Anna opted out of the business. Anna then started working in the summer at a beach in a club (Kursaal – Bagno 61 ) while she tried to figure out her next move. For two years, she really just focused on working and taking care of herself. She met her husband, Alessandro, through this job but at first didn’t really have much interest. A co-worker was telling her that he seemed to like her but Anna was unphased. After work, she had gone to the beach and happened to sit in chair that was near Alessandro’s. He started a conversation and they hit it off but he was working in wine sales and traveled often. She didn’t see him for a while and then, as destiny would have it, he appeared again months later. This time he was with a woman but according to a friend, he wouldn’t make to to Christmas with this woman. Anna paid no mind, until one day her friend tried to set up a double date with her and her husband and Anna and Alessandro. It was true- he hadn’t made it to Christmas with that woman. And the rest, as they say, is history.

Anna loves to travel and have unique experiences and she did with Alessandro. They visited Thailand, the Maldives, the United States , Spain, France and Germany, among many other places. They did settle down in Ferrara and have a little girl, Alessandra. Unfortunately, the economy in Italy was suffering and there had been an increase in burglaries. Anna’s home was one that was burglarized and as a result, her young daughter was scared and was having trouble sleeping. Anna and Alessandro knew that they had to do something and, unfortunately, like many Italians, thought to leave il Bel Paese behind.

Anna and Alessandro arrived in New York in July of 2014 and immediately started to work hard to open ViAle Gelateria. It took six months for them to officially open but it was worth it. Their daughter, Alessandra, slept through the night for the first time in a long time that summer of 2014.

Their hard work and desire to find a better place for their family is our gain. Anna proudly makes all of her gelato in-house and uses the methods she learned many years ago with her ex-boyfriend, to whom she is grateful and remains friends with. Her gelato respects the Italian tradition and uses fresh ingredients. If you like fruit flavors, none will disappoint. My personal favorite is Pompelmo (Grapefruit) but since it is made only with fresh, seasonal fruit, it is hard to find when grapefruit is not in season or if the grapefruits she buys are not good quality when she opens them. This happened early this summer. I was dreaming of her pompelmo gelato (as I often do) and decided to make the trip. When we arrived, I was disappointed but Anna explained that she couldn’t use the grapefruit she had bought because it wasn’t good. Although I say disappointed, it’s never difficult to find another flavor or two that are just as good. I decided on my favorite combination, pistacchio and fondente (dark chocolate). Needless to say, her creamy, silky gelato left me very happy.

Anna makes about 32 different flavors. In order to do this, she gets to the store early in the morning and starts to make each gelato flavor, one at a time in her gelato laboratory. The best sellers, she says, are nocciola (hazelnut), pistacchio (pistachio) and Nutella. She has a full range of fruit flavors like limone (lemon) , fragola (strawberry) and pera (pear), which is another of my personal favorites. Of course you’ll find vaniglia (vanilla), stracciatella (chocolate chip) and other fan favorites. She even makes some very different flavors, like liquirizia (liquorice). There is something for everyone (vegan flavors, too!) She even makes baked goods, like brioches and cakes. You can always call her ahead of time to order, especially if you want to make sure she has your favorite flavor. It’s easy to take home gelato in one of her vaschette ( styrofoam containers). If you’re like my family, we’ll eat a gelato there and take home a large vaschetta!

My take home vaschetta after visiting Anna! (Flavors: nocciola, pistacchio, pompelmo and limone)

The summer might be coming to an end, but there’s absolutely no wrong time to have gelato! Take the trip to ViAle Gelateria at 424 Sunrise Highway, Lynbrook, NY 11563. You can follow them on Facebook by clicking here and on Instagram here.

ViAle Gelateria 424 Sunrise Highway Lynbrook, NY 11563 (516) 442-0094

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