Categories
Family Travel

Italy’s least known region of Molise exists: check it out!

Il Molise non esiste (Molise doesn’t exist). Molise, Italy’s second smallest region and youngest region became a meme a few years ago but now it seems things are changing for the region. The mere fact that almost everyone in Italy has heard this joke that Il Molise non esiste brings it attention- and hopefully a reason to visit to discover whether or not it is just an urban legend. Searching #ilmolisenonesiste, I came across some very interesting posts that I thought were shareworthy.

My cousin, Giusy D’Alessandro was a contestant on an Italian show, Bake Off Italia, and in her interview she makes reference to the joke saying right off the bat that Molise does exist.

I have always known that Molise did exist since my grandmother was from Bojano, in the province of Campobasso. I began studying Italian in college and soon after, my cousin, Alessandro, and my Zia Maria came to visit. I was excited to meet them and Alessandro even came to stay for a while at my house, while my Zia Maria stayed with my grandparents. After their visit, I said I would one day come and visit them in Bojano. It was only a short time after, during my study abroad experience with NYU, that I was able to visit. Bojano was vastly different than Florence, where I was studying, but it was the place my family came from and I felt like it was the “real” Italy. My mother had come with me on this trip and it was her first time back in Italy after she had left when she was two years old. We were there for a short time but it was an experience we will always remember. After just a day or two, we felt as if we had been with these people our entire lives and we quickly felt at home. We visited Cività di Bojano and nearby Sepino with its Roman ruins. Many people don’t realize that the Roman Empire wasn’t just central Italy but extended beyond Rome and far beyond the Italian peninsula. Bojano, as a town, predates even the Romans. It was actually settled in the 7th century BC and its name is a derivative of the name Bovianum. A legend is told that some Samnite people were sent off to colonize and their ox had stopped here to drink and that is where these Samnites decided to settle. Bojano lays in the foothills of the Matese Mountains, where my cousins often go skiing and is along the Biferno river.

Needless to say, when I saw a posting on the NIAF Instagram page about a film called My Country which took place in Molise, I had to see this film. Luckily, I was able to stream it on Amazon Prime Video here. This is where I first learned about this joke Il Molise non esiste.

The movie is directed by Giancarlo Iannotta, who also stars in the film about an Italian-American who learns just before his father’s death that he has an Italian half-brother. Soon after Lucky (the protagonist) finds out, he does what most of us do when we want to find someone- we head to social media. Lucky finds his Italian brother and decides that he must go to Italy to meet him and to go to the town where his father was born and raised, Castel San Vincenzo, in Molise. When Lucky meets his brother and tells him, the reaction is exactly what the joke brings out in people. Francesco, Lucky’s brother, is floored that anyone would ever want to go to Molise, the region that doesn’t exist. Nonetheless, he does accompany Lucky to Molise and this is where we get to see how charming and untouched Italy can be. It is here where we understand friendliness can be instant and that a region that doesn’t exist is worth the detour off the beaten path. My Country has the potential to put Molise on the travel itineraries of Americans who have only thought of visiting Rome, Venice and Florence.

Castel San Vincenzo, Molise Photo courtesy of Giancarlo Iannotta

I was fortunate enough to be able to ask Giancarlo some questions about the film and about his connection to Italy and Molise. Giancarlo’s Italian heritage has been an important part of his life. His nonno, Felice Iannotta, emigrated to Chicago in 1956, in search of the American Dream. He, like many before him, worked tirelessly to create a better life, earn enough to bring the rest of his family over and give future generations opportunities they couldn’t have had in Italy. As members of the Chicago Molisani Club, Giancarlo and his family have enjoyed keeping their heritage and Molise in their hearts. Here is some of my interview:

What was the inspiration for the film? Had you previously traveled to Italy? The inspiration for My Country first started when I moved to Italy five-ish years ago. I had a wonderful “late in life” study abroad and was inspired to make my first feature based on my experiences living in Rome and going to Molise on the weekends. While in Rome, I worked part-time as a tour guide driving tourists around in that vintage Fiat 500 in the film and used that as the catalyst for the brothers to start their road trip. Traveling to Molise since I was 12, I always wanted to put my father’s hometown Castel San Vincenzo. My first memories of being in Italy were in 2001 when I was 12 years old and was completely in awe. From the incredible historical sites of Rome to walking around my father’s hometown, it was my dream to document those experiences and the ones that followed in some way… but never imagined I would make a feature film there!

How did you cast your film? I wrote the first draft of the screenplay in Rome and then came back to the States for a couple of months to start raising production funds. With my producers, we started assembling our crew and then put out a casting notice on the Italian version of Craigslist. Our actress Rosella came directly from a video submission and then Antonio, my brother in the film, I saw in a short film directed by a good friend who was also my assistant on the movie. I used a lot of my aunts, uncles and cousins in supporting parts and extras.

What were the best experiences filming and what were some difficulties? Any interesting anecdotes? As it says in the My Country poster “embrace the bumps and detours…” and we surely did! Whether it was losing a location, our boom microphone breaking or a flat tire on the Fiat 500, making a low budget independent film is an uphill battle but ultimately came with many more enlightening moments. First, getting to direct in Italian was something I never thought I’d do in my wildest dreams. Watching great actors every day saying my lines brought the script to life in more ways than I could’ve thought possible. My favorite memory, although chaotic in the moment, was seeing my cousins, great aunt and great uncle improvising during the gnocchi scene (my favorite of the entire film). They had never been on camera and with just a little explanation of the scene before shooting, they were so impressive and truly naturals!

Are there any plans for a sequel? Will Lucky and his brother have any other stories to tell? I think the ending of the movie definitely sets up the Francesco and Anna characters to potentially come to the States. Chissà! Who knows! It’s pretty ambitious to make your first feature film in a foreign country so maybe a more local story would be ideal.

For more information on the film, visit mycountryfilm.com

Giancarlo Iannotta, director of My Country

My Country is well worth streaming. I recommend it to Americans and Italians. It’s time for everyone to think outside the box and visit some of Italy’s hidden (until now) treasures. Molise does exist and if you are looking for some more information on what you can do in Molise, I recommend you visit My Italian Diaries. Valentina has a passion for her country and has written two posts that highlight Molise. The first gives you six great reasons to visit Molise and the second, brings you to Civitacampomarano, where a local festival of street art is so beautifully done that it’s on my list of places to visit!

If you’d like to delve a bit more into the national joke, Il Molise non esiste, check out this blog post by Alex Sakalis. He goes into the beginnings and how Molise has turned this around to bring tourists into their region. He also highlights towns to visit through his own experience traveling to the least known region of Italy. After reading this, you’ll be intrigued enough to include Molise on your next Italian vacation.

Categories
Family Immigration Travel

Why young Italians are moving out of their small hometowns

At the beginning of the 20th century, Italians were leaving Il bel Paese in search of a better life and opportunities that Italy couldn’t offer them. It was an Italy that would have not made it onto everyone’s bucket list of places to visit in their lifetime. It was a different Italy that was suffering; causing many to leave their homeland and settle in new countries near and far.

Nowadays, things are very different. Italy still may not have the economy Italians would hope for, but it has come a long way. According to U.S. News and World Report, two Italian destinations are in the top 20 places in the world to visit. Almost everyone I speak to has either been there or plans to visit. Applications for dual citizenship have increased exponentially in the last few years. Many are seeking a place to retire or to visit and feel connected to their roots. Many hope to even be able to connect with relatives from their ancestors’ home towns. When they arrive, will there be generations still living there?

Although Italy is doing much better than at the beginning of the 1900’s, it is still hard to make a life there in many places, especially the south. Southern Italians have been making their way to northern cities for work for a while now. Even though it is still a move within the same country and Italy is relatively small, many Italians feel a deep attachment to their small towns and to their families. A cousin of mine said that he had moved north in the hopes of remaining in Italy. Luckily, he was able to find a job in the import-export business in Trieste and has been there now for seven years. Recently, I asked this cousin, Alessandro, about his decision to move north to get his perspective.

Alessandro was born and raised in Bojano, Italy. Bojano is located in the province of Campobasso, in the Molise region. Molise is the second smallest region in size and population. As of 2019, the population of Bojano was 7,829. Trieste’s population by comparison is 204, 267.

Here is my interview with Alessandro:

How was it growing up in Bojano? Growing up in Bojano was really nice. I really had a great childhood here. It was your average small town life, without the chaos of a large city. Everyone knows everyone, from the butcher to the mailman. It was a more tranquil life without all of the frenzy of the city. It was like living surrounded by your extended family. The air is cleaner and since Bojano is a hilltown, you can enjoy nature walks. It is easy to leave your car behind and use your bicycle more.

Did you ever think you would have to move to another region in Italy? Actually, no. It all happened very quickly. It was a sudden, unexpected move; one I didn’t have much opportunity to think about. I had always thought that Bojano was where I would grow old but in the end, everything changes. But that’s alright because I’m doing well here in Trieste and I have no regrets.

How did you decide on Trieste? I chose Trieste because my wife’s brother already lived here for some time. But this isn’t the real reason that we live here now. After I left Bojano, I worked as as substitute teacher in Udine and then Belluno. Later on, I had sent my resumé in the Trieste area and in the end, found my current job here.

How do you feel about living in Trieste? Trieste is an amazing city with mountains and sea so I felt comfortable right away after having lived in Bojano, in the foothills of the Matese Mountains. Trieste is very multicultural and also very livable. Initially, the triestini don’t treat you like you’re one of them as we would do in the south but once they get to know you, they are very friendly. There are also so many beautiful things to see here from the Piazza Unità d’Italia, the church of San Giusto to the many Austrian-style buildings; a reminder that Trieste once belonged to the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

*Interesting facts:

  • Trieste was the fourth largest city in the Austro-Hungarian Empire.
  • Trieste has been compared to New York due to its diverse ethnic populations.
  • From 1947-1954, the area of Trieste was called the Free Territory of Trieste, maintained under military occupation by the United States and Britain.

What are some things you like and dislike about living in Trieste? Honestly, I feel like I am doing so well here that there isn’t much I don’t like; maybe the food a little bit.

*Cultural note: If you didn’t know this already, the food in Italy varies from region to region and is very different from north to south. Italians generally have a soft spot for a nice typical, home-cooked meal that reminds them where they are from.

Was it difficult to integrate with the locals (triestini)? Were there times when you weren’t able to understand each other due to linguistic differences? As I said earlier, the triestini need some time to get to know you before they are really friendly and open with you unlike southerners who are friendly from the get-go. However, in the end, they are truly good people. They are very social and enjoy being together with their friends. Initially it was difficult to understand them because they speak often in dialect. After 7 years here I am able to understand them but I don’t really like to speak as they do. I accept that they speak the way they do but I just can’t feel comfortable speaking their dialect.

*Cultural note: There are many, many dialects in Italy. Every region has their own way of speaking and within the region, there could be as many dialects as there are towns! On a small island, there are three different dialects! Dialects differ more the further you travel so my cousin’s dialect is strikingly different from his new friends’ dialect. Not only can pronunciation be different but words can also be completely different. The one thing that I think many Italians will agree upon, no matter where they are from, is that their dialect is a part of what make them them and makes them feel a strong tie to their hometowns.

Alessandro and some friends out for a meal in Trieste

What are the things you miss the most about Bojano and how often do you go back to Bojano? I really don’t miss that much about Bojano; mostly my friends and family. I usually visit once or twice a year but my parents often come to visit me in Trieste as well.

Alessandro’s parents come to Trieste to visit him and his wife, Roberta

If you could go back to live in Bojano, would you? I don’t honestly think that I would right now, but who knows what the future holds?

It was nice to catch up with Alessandro. I’m glad that he is doing well in Trieste.

Many smaller towns in Southern Italy have been losing residents for some time now. Some town have even taken to offering up homes for 1 euro (there are some strings to this deal, however) to bring people and life back into their small towns. Tourism can also help, if more people visit, there will be a need for more jobs. Some regions, like Molise, might be next to be discovered by a new wave of tourists. Check out this post!

Categories
Family Travel

Suvereto: The Accidental Trip Memories are made of!

I will admit that I am one of those people who keeps thousands of photos on my phone for a few reasons. One is that I am just too lazy to upload them to the computer and in some way I am nervous that if I upload them and delete them from my phone, anything could happen and those photos will be lost forever. The second reason is that I love having at my fingertips thousands of memories. Scrolling through my photos gives me comfort and helps me appreciate all the things I have, the people in my life and the experiences I’ve had.

Right now, travel has been put on hold due to Covid-19 but that shouldn’t stop us from making future plans because this will get better, we will travel again. So maybe now is a good time to start doing some research on places you’d like to visit. If you’re thinking of visiting Italy ( I mean, who isn’t?), I’ve got another hidden gem for you to check out: Suvereto.

Suvereto, is a small medieval village in central Tuscany in the Val di Cornia. It is located about 98 miles south of Florence and 52 miles south of Livorno. It takes its name from the latin suber , or cork wood, because of the many cork oak trees that surround the area. The first mention of this village goes back to 973 according to their town history. Its stone walls and streets will transport you back in time and make you feel at home, all at the same time.

Looking out from our private yard

I am always looking to visit small towns or villages in Italy after the main tourist attractions. It’s a way to see the “real” Italy and gain a deeper appreciation for what it really means to live La dolce vita. Major cities like Rome, Venice and Florence are favorite destinations for a reason but there is just something about slowing down and exploring areas not overrun (for now!) by hordes of tourists. The association, I borghi più belli d’Italia (The most beautiful villages of Italy), which was created in 2001 to promote tourism and appreciation of all the beauty, culture, and history small towns in Italy have to offer, has Suvereto as one of their featured towns. Check it out here.

I came across Suvereto when I was doing some research on where to stay if I wanted to visit the island of Elba but have a home base on the mainland. My goal was to take a ferry from Piombino to Elba to celebrate my birthday but wanted to stay somewhere charming. I had originally found an apartment to rent in Caldana but after messaging back and forth with the owner and having some troubles, I had to scrap that place and start over. I searched the airbnb site for places to stay near Caldana and came across this listing. The apartment itself seemed to fit our needs and price range so I started to look into the town of Suvereto. What I can say now is that I am so glad I had so many issues with the place in Caldana that forced me to cancel and find Domenico’s apartment.

First of all, Domenico was easy to work with, and was very accomodating from the get-go. I’m not sure if he speaks English since I communicated with him in Italian, but I am sure that he must speak some English since I see that after being the first Americans to stay in his place, there was another couple from America that stayed there. His place has everything you can need, 2 bedrooms, a bathroom with a tub, a kitchen, living room and the best part- a gorgeous private garden! Parking is nearby and free and the apartment is located right in the heart of the town. It’s only a few minutes walk before you reach the main road and piazza.

Suvereto has many restaurants to keep you happily fed for the entire time you are there. However, there was one pizzeria which we loved for the pizza and for the fact that it was located in what used to be a movie theater! The upstairs of Bar Torrione Pizzeria Spaghetteria da Gegè still has movie theater seats in the upper level, if you eat inside. Of course, we ate inside and outside! With two kids, pizza is always one of the best options.

Another really happy coincidence was that we happened to be staying the week that Suvereto hosts Serate medievali or Medieval Nights every year in July. We just happened to be staying there the right week! Each evening, the town transforms into a medieval town, burlap over the street lights, parades of people in costumes, medieval games, food and a different show each night. One night, we were entertained by a fire breathing, tight-rope walking performer followed by a medieval procession and dancing after eating probably the best sausage sandwich. A really nice touch is that you are able to exchange your euros for medieval coins to pay for the food or games.

During the day, thanks to Domenico’s suggestion, we visited nearby Baratti beach. This beach along the Etruscan coast is well-known to locals but is well worth your trip there. On one side, you have the gorgeous, clear water of the Gulf of Baratti, which when you look close looks as if it is shimmering with the metals that were once mined by the Etruscans, and other side a pine forest. Parking is available for pay at the beach. There are also two restaurants on site. You will have to bring your own umbrellas and chairs, however. If you’re visiting in the summer, Baratti is a must!

Other day trips we made from our home base in Suvereto are Livorno, the capital of the province, Volterra, Sovana, Sorano and the island of Elba. These are certainly not an exhaustive list of possibilities but we only had a week there.

Livorno, the provincial capital was a nice day trip and only about an hour drive north. We easily parked on the street and just walked around the area near the water to discover what Livorno had to offer. We found the Terrazza Mascagni to be a nice first stop where we could walk along the water while taking in incredible views and do some people-watching. There were bathers, fishers and of course other people just walking along the terrace as we did. We stopped nearby for a bite to eat, but I will say this, if you are afraid of birds (as I am), you might want to eat inside if you’re near the water! Our next stop was the aquarium. The aquarium was well-organized and not overwhelming to visit. The kids had a blast!

Terrazza Mascagni, Livorno

Another day trip was to Volterra, another Etruscan hilltop town. Some may recognize Volterra from Stephenie Meyer’s Twilight series. Luckily, we did not encounter any vampires, but we did have a nice day just walking around and taking in the city. Once you climb the stairs to enter the walled city, you can easily walk through the city. There are plenty of restaurants and shops to keep you busy for the whole day. We were happy to just wander around and enjoy the city vibe but if you like more info on the many things to see, check out this post from Discover Tuscany.

Volterra

I had read about the Vie cave or the excavated roads made by the Etruscans of the tufa rock. We started by visiting the tiny town of Sovana. Here, we walked through the one road town and visited the Museo di Mamiliano, where you can find the bones of Saint Mamiliano. We also went into a shop that specialized in alabaster products, which are well-known in this area. We made a few purchases to bring home as gifts and then headed out to explore the Vie cave. I will admit they were a bit difficult to find driving but we eventually did and were able to walk through some of these ancient roads that pre-date the Romans.

Finally, we did get to visit the island of Elba. We booked the ferry ride with Corsica-Sardinia Ferries easily. We did take our car on the ferry since after reading up on Elba, it seemed to reach certain areas, especially some of the best beaches, we would need a car. We did walk around the port area and the downtown area a bit but our real goal was to have a beach day. The drive to Scaglieri beach was a bit scary for my wife but once we got down to the beach, everyone was so helpful and welcoming. The parking attendants right across from the beach took the car, and also set us up with umbrellas and chairs for four for just about $50! The beach did not disappoint! The water was amazing! It was a sandy beach with crystal-clear water. My kids met a local around their age who they played with until we went to eat something at the beach restaurant. The restaurant had something for everyone, was economical, delicious and gorgeous views of the beach. Our day could not have been more perfect. We boarded our return ferry and headed back to Suvereto that evening.

Unfortunately, our vacation had to come to an end and we had to head back to reality but making Suvereto a home away from home may one day become a reality. My wife and I have often discussed owning a home in Italy but we were never really sure where. We have family spread out all over Italy and we have traveled pretty extensively but could never really agree on where to make our Italian dream become a reality. Suvereto changed this. We don’t often agree on a decision this big but we can say that Suvereto has the feel of a small town we could see ourselves spending our time in while still being within driving distance to so many other towns waiting to be explored.

Categories
Food Immigration Stateside Finds Travel

How Long Island got the best Italian gelato

Choices of gelato at ViAle Gelateria

Gelato may be the Italian word for ice cream but gelato is not ice cream. And ViAle Gelateria in Lynbrook, New York is not like any other. If you happen to be anywhere near this Long Island town in western Nassau, a trip to ViAle is a must! Heck, even if you’re not near Lynbrook, it’s worth the trip. I don’t remember exactly how we came across this little gem. It might have been a post on social media or a little write up in a local paper. Whatever the reason, since the first time that I set foot in the gelateria, I haven’t found one equal to it.

Owner/ Gelato Chef Anna welcomes everyone to her gelateria

Of course the gelato itself is the main attraction but Anna Franchi, the gelatiere and owner. Anna welcomes you into her store as if you were old friends. She is truly happy to see you. You can see it in her smile; you can hear it in how she greets you. As her sign says, “Homemade with love.”

Anna Franchi was born and raised in a small town outside of Ferrara, Italy. After high school, she didn’t have the desire to continue on to university and instead she went to work in a surveyor’s office. She eventually met and started dating a man who was a gelatiere and he taught her how to make artisanal gelato. They soon would open up a gelateria in Ferrara, right across from the Duomo di Ferrara or main cathedral. The business started to go well and eventually expanded into a pasticceria, or pastry shop, as well. Unfortunately, after 13 years, their relationship suffered and Anna opted out of the business. Anna then started working in the summer at a beach in a club (Kursaal – Bagno 61 ) while she tried to figure out her next move. For two years, she really just focused on working and taking care of herself. She met her husband, Alessandro, through this job but at first didn’t really have much interest. A co-worker was telling her that he seemed to like her but Anna was unphased. After work, she had gone to the beach and happened to sit in chair that was near Alessandro’s. He started a conversation and they hit it off but he was working in wine sales and traveled often. She didn’t see him for a while and then, as destiny would have it, he appeared again months later. This time he was with a woman but according to a friend, he wouldn’t make to to Christmas with this woman. Anna paid no mind, until one day her friend tried to set up a double date with her and her husband and Anna and Alessandro. It was true- he hadn’t made it to Christmas with that woman. And the rest, as they say, is history.

Anna loves to travel and have unique experiences and she did with Alessandro. They visited Thailand, the Maldives, the United States , Spain, France and Germany, among many other places. They did settle down in Ferrara and have a little girl, Alessandra. Unfortunately, the economy in Italy was suffering and there had been an increase in burglaries. Anna’s home was one that was burglarized and as a result, her young daughter was scared and was having trouble sleeping. Anna and Alessandro knew that they had to do something and, unfortunately, like many Italians, thought to leave il Bel Paese behind.

Anna and Alessandro arrived in New York in July of 2014 and immediately started to work hard to open ViAle Gelateria. It took six months for them to officially open but it was worth it. Their daughter, Alessandra, slept through the night for the first time in a long time that summer of 2014.

Their hard work and desire to find a better place for their family is our gain. Anna proudly makes all of her gelato in-house and uses the methods she learned many years ago with her ex-boyfriend, to whom she is grateful and remains friends with. Her gelato respects the Italian tradition and uses fresh ingredients. If you like fruit flavors, none will disappoint. My personal favorite is Pompelmo (Grapefruit) but since it is made only with fresh, seasonal fruit, it is hard to find when grapefruit is not in season or if the grapefruits she buys are not good quality when she opens them. This happened early this summer. I was dreaming of her pompelmo gelato (as I often do) and decided to make the trip. When we arrived, I was disappointed but Anna explained that she couldn’t use the grapefruit she had bought because it wasn’t good. Although I say disappointed, it’s never difficult to find another flavor or two that are just as good. I decided on my favorite combination, pistacchio and fondente (dark chocolate). Needless to say, her creamy, silky gelato left me very happy.

Anna makes about 32 different flavors. In order to do this, she gets to the store early in the morning and starts to make each gelato flavor, one at a time in her gelato laboratory. The best sellers, she says, are nocciola (hazelnut), pistacchio (pistachio) and Nutella. She has a full range of fruit flavors like limone (lemon) , fragola (strawberry) and pera (pear), which is another of my personal favorites. Of course you’ll find vaniglia (vanilla), stracciatella (chocolate chip) and other fan favorites. She even makes some very different flavors, like liquirizia (liquorice). There is something for everyone (vegan flavors, too!) She even makes baked goods, like brioches and cakes. You can always call her ahead of time to order, especially if you want to make sure she has your favorite flavor. It’s easy to take home gelato in one of her vaschette ( styrofoam containers). If you’re like my family, we’ll eat a gelato there and take home a large vaschetta!

My take home vaschetta after visiting Anna! (Flavors: nocciola, pistacchio, pompelmo and limone)

The summer might be coming to an end, but there’s absolutely no wrong time to have gelato! Take the trip to ViAle Gelateria at 424 Sunrise Highway, Lynbrook, NY 11563. You can follow them on Facebook by clicking here and on Instagram here.

ViAle Gelateria 424 Sunrise Highway Lynbrook, NY 11563 (516) 442-0094

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Categories
Family Immigration Travel

How I found my roots and built my family tree

I’ve always been interested in the origins of my family. I have always asked questions because I wanted to know more. My father’s side of the family was from Poland, Austria and Russia. I knew this but when I asked my father about his family, he would always say he didn’t know much and that he was proud to be an American. I always thought it strange that he didn’t ever ask his father who was an immigrant from Poland about his story. A few years back, he gave me my grandfather’s Polish passport and other documentation. I thought it was like hitting the jackpot. Holding in my hand the very passport that my grandfather, whom I never had the opportunity to meet, carried across an ocean towards a better life. Although my dad might have said he didn’t care much for the story of his family, when he passed this year I found that he saved a suitcase full of of photos and momentos. It’s been speculated that this was the suitcase that his father used when he came to America. I guess my dad cared more about his family’s memories more than he let on.

My grandfather’s suitcase

On my mother’s side, it was completely different. I was fortunate to have had a long relationship with my grandparents. They came from Italy in the early 1950s and always talked about Italy. The stories they have told have been ingrained in my memory and really fostered my desire to know more about my roots and where I came from. Although there are a number of relatives here in America, there are many still in Italy. My grandfather was the only one of his siblings to come to America and my grandmother left behind two of her brothers.

The year before I did a study abroad program in Florence, my grandfather’s sister, Maria, came to visit with her grandson, Alessandro. I had been studying Italian for about a year and a half. I was beyond excited to meet them and practice my Italian. Looking back, I think I did pretty well but my Italian wasn’t what it is today by any means. Alessandro and I had hit it off and he even came to stay at my house for a while. Even though my grandfather had said to me when I told him that I was going to learn Italian, “What are you going to do for the Italian?” (You need to say that with a heavy Italian accent and I promise it will make sense), I think he was so proud that I was able to communicate with my cousin and my Zia Maria.

After my zia and my cousin left, I told them that I would be coming to Italy to study and I changed my major in order to become an Italian teacher. I kept in touch with Alessandro and when I had a break from school, my mother had come to visit and Alessandro came up to Florence with his father to bring us down to the town where my grandmother had grown up –Bojano. I was so excited to see where my grandmother had lived for 26 years before coming to America and where her family had had roots for many years. The feeling of being in the place where my grandmother was raised was indescribable. I felt as if I were meant to have made this trip and that it would forever change me. I met so many cousins and many of my grandparents’ siblings.

One thing that is particular to my family is that my grandparents families were extremely connected since my grandmother’s brother married my grandfather’s sister and my Zia Maria married my grandmother’s first cousin, Giuseppe. Since there were so many connections here, my cousins also took us to the town where my grandfather was born and raised – Conca della Campania. As soon as we arrived, I saw a man walking on the street and instantly knew who he was although we had never met before. He was my grandfather’s brother, Aurelio and he looked like a younger version of my grandfather. We walked through the town and even got to see the house where my mother was born. She had never seen it before either! Of course we visited the houses of each of my grandfather’s brothers before having a meal with Zio Aurelio and Zia Lina. I’ll never forget what Zio Aurelio said to me while we were eating our pasta (penne lisce – my grandfather’s favorite). He was studying me as I ate and he said to me, “You eat your pasta just like my brother!” It’s true. I slide my pasta onto my fork (short pasta, of course) instead of stabbing it, just like my grandfather. It made me proud and made me feel a part of the family.

At Zio Aurelio’s house in Conca della Campania

Since my first time in Italy, I have returned many times with student and adult tours and for family vacations. I have connected with more cousins and have been fortunate to have gotten to see many of them each time I go.

In 2010, I decided that I would finally take the time to put together my family tree. Genealogy had become very popular and websites were offering services to help you build your trees and help you to research all in one place. I chose to use Ancestry.com. I had a good start because I was able to ask my father about his side and even though he thought it was odd that I was doing this, he obliged me with names and relations. On my mother’s side, I reached out to some family in Italy asking if they had information and a few responded with some very detailed information. For the rest, I was on my own researching the website’s databases and other web sites.

You have to become somewhat of a detective to find information. I started with all the information I could gather from relatives and started from my generation and then going backwards. On my father’s side, I was only able to go back to my great-great grandparents on both his mother’s and father’s sides. Unfortunately, records from Poland, Austria and Russia (or wherever the country borders were at the time) are hard to come by and I am at a disadvantage not speaking any of those languages. On my mother’s side, I was able to go back as far as my six-times great grandparents! That puts me somewhere in the early 1700s!

What really helped in my research were a few things and could help you, too!

  • Talk to your living relatives and gather as much information as you can, even if dates are approximate. Write it all down!
  • Use the databases available to you on a website like ancestry.com or Family Search. Here you can find so much information like draft cards, census results, birth and death records, ship manifests. Many documents will give links to other family members. For example, a birth record will list parents names and ages, which will help you then look for their birth records and so on. A ship manifest will often show the next of kin left behind in the country of departure and their address. A census will tell you where they lived at the time, with whom and even professions.
  • If you are looking for records from Italy, many towns have digitized their birth, death and marriage records. I suggest checking out Antenati (it means ancestors in Italian). If you click on Browse the registries, then look for the Archivo di… and find the province of the town you are looking for. When you click on that particular archive link, it will then give you a choice of Stato civile napoleonico, Stato civile della restaurazione and Stato civile italiano. These go in chronological order starting around 1809 for napoleonico, 1816 for restaurazione and 1861 for italiano. When you choose one of these, then you will get a list of all towns available. Choose your town and start doing your detective work. *Hint: for some of these registries there will be an initial page that contains a list of all the births or deaths that might make it easier than opening each and every page.
  • If you are using Ancestry.com, then you might find other trees of users that have information to help you out. Make sure you review your hints!

It took me years to get to where I am because it takes a lot of patience and deciphering of Italian handwriting. Some years, the transcriber had easy to read handwriting and some years, it is chicken scratch, at best. Although it can be somewhat tedious, when you find a link, it really is a breakthrough and will give you the next piece of information that you need to go even further back.

There are some interesting things I was able to piece together when researching my family. One thing that I realized was how likely it was that children would not survive, as you go back further in time due to lack of resources but sometimes fate takes over. I was able to find both three-times great-grandmothers on my grandmother’s side. I learned that one of them had two husbands and five children but only one child made it to adulthood. The other, a single mother in 1845, had only one child who was born to an unknown father. These two children somehow were destined to be married and would end up being my grandmother’s grandparents. It made me appreciate that if the stars hadn’t aligned just the right way, I wouldn’t be here.

Another interesting story I learned after I was stopped dead in my tracks, not being able to go beyond my great-great-grandfather because he was born to an unknown father, was that this padre incerto was German. And he did not want a child or to marry. So he jumped off a balcony and survived. He then went back to Germany. This is the story that a cousin of mine told me. And this is the reason she believes that she has blue eyes and light hair. I have no way to prove it but it is a story that made its way to 2020 from 1845.

Right now, I’m at a bit of a stand-still because I can’t go back any further without accessing parochial records. For that, I’ll need to go to Italy. Ever since one of my cousins said to me that he thought we had some ancestors from Florence, it instantly became my mission to prove that I am related to Dante Alighieri. I guess that would explain my intense love of the language and why I chose to teach it. You might think I’m nuts and it might be a huge stretch and undertaking but after watching the tv show, Who do you think you are? and seeing that Cindy Crawford is related to Charlemagne, nothing is impossible.

Dante impersonator, Florence

Categories
Family Travel

Hidden Italy – Spice up your trip with something new

Rome, Florence, Venice – the triad of cities foreigners flock to when they visit Il bel paese and with good reason. They are probably the first cities that come to mind when planning a trip. Rome is where it all began, Florence is the cradle of the Renaissance and Venice’s canals and over 400 footbridges are definitely worth visiting and spending time exploring. As a university student, I lived in Florence for about a year and a half and I don’t think I could tire of spending time in Dante’s hometown.

When I am building an itinerary for a trip to Italy for my students, I try to find a good balance between what travelers expect to see and places they would never have even known about. I think this is a great way to really showcase all that Italy has to offer. Oftentimes, participants on my tours will tell me their favorite part of the tour was one of these little side-steps that we took. And when there’s a great story behind a town or site, even better!

If you’re visiting both Rome and Florence, I highly recommend taking the time to stop at the Sacro Bosco or Parco dei Mostri (The park of the Monsters) in Bomarzo. It’s a little over an hour drive north from Rome, on your way into Tuscany. You will not be disappointed and that is a promise.

The story behind this Parco dei Mostri is that, in the mid 16th century, Pier Francesco Orsini, also called Vicino Orsini, commissioned this park be built due to the immense grief that he felt when his wife, Giulia Farnese, passed away. The park was forgotten about until the 1950s and then underwent restorations and eventually opened to the public.

Visitors will find larger than life statues of monsters and creatures both real and mythical as they walk through the park. There is even a leaning “house” and a temple dedicated to Orsini’s wife. All throughout the gardens, you will also find that there are inscriptions on many of the sculptures.

This stop was such a hit with my students that when I visited Italy that summer with my family, I had to bring my own kids there. And as promised, it was the perfect stop on our way to stay in another off-the-beaten path medieval town for a week. But that’s for another post- look out for it!