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Family Travel

Italy’s least known region of Molise exists: check it out!

Il Molise non esiste (Molise doesn’t exist). Molise, Italy’s second smallest region and youngest region became a meme a few years ago but now it seems things are changing for the region. The mere fact that almost everyone in Italy has heard this joke that Il Molise non esiste brings it attention- and hopefully a reason to visit to discover whether or not it is just an urban legend. Searching #ilmolisenonesiste, I came across some very interesting posts that I thought were shareworthy.

My cousin, Giusy D’Alessandro was a contestant on an Italian show, Bake Off Italia, and in her interview she makes reference to the joke saying right off the bat that Molise does exist.

I have always known that Molise did exist since my grandmother was from Bojano, in the province of Campobasso. I began studying Italian in college and soon after, my cousin, Alessandro, and my Zia Maria came to visit. I was excited to meet them and Alessandro even came to stay for a while at my house, while my Zia Maria stayed with my grandparents. After their visit, I said I would one day come and visit them in Bojano. It was only a short time after, during my study abroad experience with NYU, that I was able to visit. Bojano was vastly different than Florence, where I was studying, but it was the place my family came from and I felt like it was the “real” Italy. My mother had come with me on this trip and it was her first time back in Italy after she had left when she was two years old. We were there for a short time but it was an experience we will always remember. After just a day or two, we felt as if we had been with these people our entire lives and we quickly felt at home. We visited Cività di Bojano and nearby Sepino with its Roman ruins. Many people don’t realize that the Roman Empire wasn’t just central Italy but extended beyond Rome and far beyond the Italian peninsula. Bojano, as a town, predates even the Romans. It was actually settled in the 7th century BC and its name is a derivative of the name Bovianum. A legend is told that some Samnite people were sent off to colonize and their ox had stopped here to drink and that is where these Samnites decided to settle. Bojano lays in the foothills of the Matese Mountains, where my cousins often go skiing and is along the Biferno river.

Needless to say, when I saw a posting on the NIAF Instagram page about a film called My Country which took place in Molise, I had to see this film. Luckily, I was able to stream it on Amazon Prime Video here. This is where I first learned about this joke Il Molise non esiste.

The movie is directed by Giancarlo Iannotta, who also stars in the film about an Italian-American who learns just before his father’s death that he has an Italian half-brother. Soon after Lucky (the protagonist) finds out, he does what most of us do when we want to find someone- we head to social media. Lucky finds his Italian brother and decides that he must go to Italy to meet him and to go to the town where his father was born and raised, Castel San Vincenzo, in Molise. When Lucky meets his brother and tells him, the reaction is exactly what the joke brings out in people. Francesco, Lucky’s brother, is floored that anyone would ever want to go to Molise, the region that doesn’t exist. Nonetheless, he does accompany Lucky to Molise and this is where we get to see how charming and untouched Italy can be. It is here where we understand friendliness can be instant and that a region that doesn’t exist is worth the detour off the beaten path. My Country has the potential to put Molise on the travel itineraries of Americans who have only thought of visiting Rome, Venice and Florence.

Castel San Vincenzo, Molise Photo courtesy of Giancarlo Iannotta

I was fortunate enough to be able to ask Giancarlo some questions about the film and about his connection to Italy and Molise. Giancarlo’s Italian heritage has been an important part of his life. His nonno, Felice Iannotta, emigrated to Chicago in 1956, in search of the American Dream. He, like many before him, worked tirelessly to create a better life, earn enough to bring the rest of his family over and give future generations opportunities they couldn’t have had in Italy. As members of the Chicago Molisani Club, Giancarlo and his family have enjoyed keeping their heritage and Molise in their hearts. Here is some of my interview:

What was the inspiration for the film? Had you previously traveled to Italy? The inspiration for My Country first started when I moved to Italy five-ish years ago. I had a wonderful “late in life” study abroad and was inspired to make my first feature based on my experiences living in Rome and going to Molise on the weekends. While in Rome, I worked part-time as a tour guide driving tourists around in that vintage Fiat 500 in the film and used that as the catalyst for the brothers to start their road trip. Traveling to Molise since I was 12, I always wanted to put my father’s hometown Castel San Vincenzo. My first memories of being in Italy were in 2001 when I was 12 years old and was completely in awe. From the incredible historical sites of Rome to walking around my father’s hometown, it was my dream to document those experiences and the ones that followed in some way… but never imagined I would make a feature film there!

How did you cast your film? I wrote the first draft of the screenplay in Rome and then came back to the States for a couple of months to start raising production funds. With my producers, we started assembling our crew and then put out a casting notice on the Italian version of Craigslist. Our actress Rosella came directly from a video submission and then Antonio, my brother in the film, I saw in a short film directed by a good friend who was also my assistant on the movie. I used a lot of my aunts, uncles and cousins in supporting parts and extras.

What were the best experiences filming and what were some difficulties? Any interesting anecdotes? As it says in the My Country poster “embrace the bumps and detours…” and we surely did! Whether it was losing a location, our boom microphone breaking or a flat tire on the Fiat 500, making a low budget independent film is an uphill battle but ultimately came with many more enlightening moments. First, getting to direct in Italian was something I never thought I’d do in my wildest dreams. Watching great actors every day saying my lines brought the script to life in more ways than I could’ve thought possible. My favorite memory, although chaotic in the moment, was seeing my cousins, great aunt and great uncle improvising during the gnocchi scene (my favorite of the entire film). They had never been on camera and with just a little explanation of the scene before shooting, they were so impressive and truly naturals!

Are there any plans for a sequel? Will Lucky and his brother have any other stories to tell? I think the ending of the movie definitely sets up the Francesco and Anna characters to potentially come to the States. Chissà! Who knows! It’s pretty ambitious to make your first feature film in a foreign country so maybe a more local story would be ideal.

For more information on the film, visit mycountryfilm.com

Giancarlo Iannotta, director of My Country

My Country is well worth streaming. I recommend it to Americans and Italians. It’s time for everyone to think outside the box and visit some of Italy’s hidden (until now) treasures. Molise does exist and if you are looking for some more information on what you can do in Molise, I recommend you visit My Italian Diaries. Valentina has a passion for her country and has written two posts that highlight Molise. The first gives you six great reasons to visit Molise and the second, brings you to Civitacampomarano, where a local festival of street art is so beautifully done that it’s on my list of places to visit!

If you’d like to delve a bit more into the national joke, Il Molise non esiste, check out this blog post by Alex Sakalis. He goes into the beginnings and how Molise has turned this around to bring tourists into their region. He also highlights towns to visit through his own experience traveling to the least known region of Italy. After reading this, you’ll be intrigued enough to include Molise on your next Italian vacation.

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Family Travel

Suvereto: The Accidental Trip Memories are made of!

I will admit that I am one of those people who keeps thousands of photos on my phone for a few reasons. One is that I am just too lazy to upload them to the computer and in some way I am nervous that if I upload them and delete them from my phone, anything could happen and those photos will be lost forever. The second reason is that I love having at my fingertips thousands of memories. Scrolling through my photos gives me comfort and helps me appreciate all the things I have, the people in my life and the experiences I’ve had.

Right now, travel has been put on hold due to Covid-19 but that shouldn’t stop us from making future plans because this will get better, we will travel again. So maybe now is a good time to start doing some research on places you’d like to visit. If you’re thinking of visiting Italy ( I mean, who isn’t?), I’ve got another hidden gem for you to check out: Suvereto.

Suvereto, is a small medieval village in central Tuscany in the Val di Cornia. It is located about 98 miles south of Florence and 52 miles south of Livorno. It takes its name from the latin suber , or cork wood, because of the many cork oak trees that surround the area. The first mention of this village goes back to 973 according to their town history. Its stone walls and streets will transport you back in time and make you feel at home, all at the same time.

Looking out from our private yard

I am always looking to visit small towns or villages in Italy after the main tourist attractions. It’s a way to see the “real” Italy and gain a deeper appreciation for what it really means to live La dolce vita. Major cities like Rome, Venice and Florence are favorite destinations for a reason but there is just something about slowing down and exploring areas not overrun (for now!) by hordes of tourists. The association, I borghi più belli d’Italia (The most beautiful villages of Italy), which was created in 2001 to promote tourism and appreciation of all the beauty, culture, and history small towns in Italy have to offer, has Suvereto as one of their featured towns. Check it out here.

I came across Suvereto when I was doing some research on where to stay if I wanted to visit the island of Elba but have a home base on the mainland. My goal was to take a ferry from Piombino to Elba to celebrate my birthday but wanted to stay somewhere charming. I had originally found an apartment to rent in Caldana but after messaging back and forth with the owner and having some troubles, I had to scrap that place and start over. I searched the airbnb site for places to stay near Caldana and came across this listing. The apartment itself seemed to fit our needs and price range so I started to look into the town of Suvereto. What I can say now is that I am so glad I had so many issues with the place in Caldana that forced me to cancel and find Domenico’s apartment.

First of all, Domenico was easy to work with, and was very accomodating from the get-go. I’m not sure if he speaks English since I communicated with him in Italian, but I am sure that he must speak some English since I see that after being the first Americans to stay in his place, there was another couple from America that stayed there. His place has everything you can need, 2 bedrooms, a bathroom with a tub, a kitchen, living room and the best part- a gorgeous private garden! Parking is nearby and free and the apartment is located right in the heart of the town. It’s only a few minutes walk before you reach the main road and piazza.

Suvereto has many restaurants to keep you happily fed for the entire time you are there. However, there was one pizzeria which we loved for the pizza and for the fact that it was located in what used to be a movie theater! The upstairs of Bar Torrione Pizzeria Spaghetteria da Gegè still has movie theater seats in the upper level, if you eat inside. Of course, we ate inside and outside! With two kids, pizza is always one of the best options.

Another really happy coincidence was that we happened to be staying the week that Suvereto hosts Serate medievali or Medieval Nights every year in July. We just happened to be staying there the right week! Each evening, the town transforms into a medieval town, burlap over the street lights, parades of people in costumes, medieval games, food and a different show each night. One night, we were entertained by a fire breathing, tight-rope walking performer followed by a medieval procession and dancing after eating probably the best sausage sandwich. A really nice touch is that you are able to exchange your euros for medieval coins to pay for the food or games.

During the day, thanks to Domenico’s suggestion, we visited nearby Baratti beach. This beach along the Etruscan coast is well-known to locals but is well worth your trip there. On one side, you have the gorgeous, clear water of the Gulf of Baratti, which when you look close looks as if it is shimmering with the metals that were once mined by the Etruscans, and other side a pine forest. Parking is available for pay at the beach. There are also two restaurants on site. You will have to bring your own umbrellas and chairs, however. If you’re visiting in the summer, Baratti is a must!

Other day trips we made from our home base in Suvereto are Livorno, the capital of the province, Volterra, Sovana, Sorano and the island of Elba. These are certainly not an exhaustive list of possibilities but we only had a week there.

Livorno, the provincial capital was a nice day trip and only about an hour drive north. We easily parked on the street and just walked around the area near the water to discover what Livorno had to offer. We found the Terrazza Mascagni to be a nice first stop where we could walk along the water while taking in incredible views and do some people-watching. There were bathers, fishers and of course other people just walking along the terrace as we did. We stopped nearby for a bite to eat, but I will say this, if you are afraid of birds (as I am), you might want to eat inside if you’re near the water! Our next stop was the aquarium. The aquarium was well-organized and not overwhelming to visit. The kids had a blast!

Terrazza Mascagni, Livorno

Another day trip was to Volterra, another Etruscan hilltop town. Some may recognize Volterra from Stephenie Meyer’s Twilight series. Luckily, we did not encounter any vampires, but we did have a nice day just walking around and taking in the city. Once you climb the stairs to enter the walled city, you can easily walk through the city. There are plenty of restaurants and shops to keep you busy for the whole day. We were happy to just wander around and enjoy the city vibe but if you like more info on the many things to see, check out this post from Discover Tuscany.

Volterra

I had read about the Vie cave or the excavated roads made by the Etruscans of the tufa rock. We started by visiting the tiny town of Sovana. Here, we walked through the one road town and visited the Museo di Mamiliano, where you can find the bones of Saint Mamiliano. We also went into a shop that specialized in alabaster products, which are well-known in this area. We made a few purchases to bring home as gifts and then headed out to explore the Vie cave. I will admit they were a bit difficult to find driving but we eventually did and were able to walk through some of these ancient roads that pre-date the Romans.

Finally, we did get to visit the island of Elba. We booked the ferry ride with Corsica-Sardinia Ferries easily. We did take our car on the ferry since after reading up on Elba, it seemed to reach certain areas, especially some of the best beaches, we would need a car. We did walk around the port area and the downtown area a bit but our real goal was to have a beach day. The drive to Scaglieri beach was a bit scary for my wife but once we got down to the beach, everyone was so helpful and welcoming. The parking attendants right across from the beach took the car, and also set us up with umbrellas and chairs for four for just about $50! The beach did not disappoint! The water was amazing! It was a sandy beach with crystal-clear water. My kids met a local around their age who they played with until we went to eat something at the beach restaurant. The restaurant had something for everyone, was economical, delicious and gorgeous views of the beach. Our day could not have been more perfect. We boarded our return ferry and headed back to Suvereto that evening.

Unfortunately, our vacation had to come to an end and we had to head back to reality but making Suvereto a home away from home may one day become a reality. My wife and I have often discussed owning a home in Italy but we were never really sure where. We have family spread out all over Italy and we have traveled pretty extensively but could never really agree on where to make our Italian dream become a reality. Suvereto changed this. We don’t often agree on a decision this big but we can say that Suvereto has the feel of a small town we could see ourselves spending our time in while still being within driving distance to so many other towns waiting to be explored.

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Family Travel

Hidden Italy – Spice up your trip with something new

Rome, Florence, Venice – the triad of cities foreigners flock to when they visit Il bel paese and with good reason. They are probably the first cities that come to mind when planning a trip. Rome is where it all began, Florence is the cradle of the Renaissance and Venice’s canals and over 400 footbridges are definitely worth visiting and spending time exploring. As a university student, I lived in Florence for about a year and a half and I don’t think I could tire of spending time in Dante’s hometown.

When I am building an itinerary for a trip to Italy for my students, I try to find a good balance between what travelers expect to see and places they would never have even known about. I think this is a great way to really showcase all that Italy has to offer. Oftentimes, participants on my tours will tell me their favorite part of the tour was one of these little side-steps that we took. And when there’s a great story behind a town or site, even better!

If you’re visiting both Rome and Florence, I highly recommend taking the time to stop at the Sacro Bosco or Parco dei Mostri (The park of the Monsters) in Bomarzo. It’s a little over an hour drive north from Rome, on your way into Tuscany. You will not be disappointed and that is a promise.

The story behind this Parco dei Mostri is that, in the mid 16th century, Pier Francesco Orsini, also called Vicino Orsini, commissioned this park be built due to the immense grief that he felt when his wife, Giulia Farnese, passed away. The park was forgotten about until the 1950s and then underwent restorations and eventually opened to the public.

Visitors will find larger than life statues of monsters and creatures both real and mythical as they walk through the park. There is even a leaning “house” and a temple dedicated to Orsini’s wife. All throughout the gardens, you will also find that there are inscriptions on many of the sculptures.

This stop was such a hit with my students that when I visited Italy that summer with my family, I had to bring my own kids there. And as promised, it was the perfect stop on our way to stay in another off-the-beaten path medieval town for a week. But that’s for another post- look out for it!