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Education Family Italian American Gratitude Challenge Learn Italian Music

Italian- America Gratitude Challenge # 5 – Music

If there is one thing that I could do for hours and hours on end, it’s listen to music. Music is one of the most comforting companions. There are songs for just about every mood. A day without music for me in unimaginable. On the way to work, in the background while at work, on the way home from work, while I’m cooking dinner and then doing work after dinner. If I’m cleaning, music is probably just about as loud as I think I could make it before my family wants to kill me. As I write this, the speaker in my kitchen is cranking out music from my daily mix on Spotify.

By now I think that most people who know me are used to me quoting songs, breaking out in song because someone said something and it made me think of a song. My wife will often test me on songs she has Shazamed (Shazam is an app that will tell you want song is playing). I’ll be teaching and a song will pop into my mind and I’ll have sing a bit of it as my students look at their crazy teacher sing off-key as if it were just another normal part of our lesson.

Without music, life would be a mistake.

Friedrich Nieitzsche

I didn’t have much in common with my father but the one thing we did share was a love of music. Like me, he was always listening to music. His favorite was music from the 1950’s and 1960’s but also like me, he could appreciate just about any kind of music. His first cousin, Mort Shuman, was an incredible songwriter who wrote songs for Elvis Presley, Dion, Fabian and The Drifters, to name a few. My father was so proud of this and maybe that was what made him enjoy that music so much or maybe he, like me, just felt that music was almost as necessary as breathing. Whatever it was, we shared this. Here’s a true story about us. On a cruise to Canada, my dad had put my name on a piece of paper to participate in an on-board game show. I was so angry that he put my name on that paper because the last thing I wanted to do was to be on a stage on a cruise ship. Naturally, my name was called and I told him that since he put my name on the paper, he had to be the one who went up on stage with me. Who could have known that the first questions would be something like name that tune? The first one, Madonna. I got that in like half a note. Don’t even insult me. The next, Ace of Base. (This should also tell you about when this was – about 20 years ago). We were unstoppable and we won it all – champagne, lithographs, a ship on a stick and excursions. Now that I think of this, it is probably one of the best memories that I have of us together.

Something I sadly have to admit is that I lack any and all musical abilities. Some people are born with it, some can learn to develop their abilities. I, on the other hand, have never been able to learn to read music, play music or sing well. Nonetheless, I have a deep, emotional connection with music and honestly, I am perfectly happy just singing along (badly) to every single song.

So how does this fit in with being grateful as an Italian-American? Well, no genre of music has ever truly turned me off. I can appreciate just about any kind of music but Italian music has a place in my life that other music can’t live up to.

When I first decided to learn the language of my grandparents, I didn’t realize that taking courses would not be enough and that music would quickly fill that void. After my first two courses, I realized that I needed more input. I needed input that would be more appealing to me. Input that I could interact with and that would bring me to the next level. Enter Laura Pausini and many artists to follow.

I bought my first Italian music CD at Tower Records. For more on this story, check out my post, You should be streaming Italian music!. This CD by Laura Pausini changed my life because it introduced me to the best way for me to learn the language. Laura’s voice literally sand to me and made me want to know what she was singing. After that, I listened to other artists and watched the Sanremo Music Festival. I built my collection and my vocabulary. I do believe that it changed my trajectory and helped me achieve success in the language and eventually become a language teacher. To this day, I use music whenever possible to help my students because I know that music has the power to take your comprehension skills to a new level. So many of my students have downloaded songs that we have discussed in class and knowing that makes my heart sing. They also get a huge kick out of watching their teacher make a fool of himself singing and dancing along to the music. And they know if a new Laura Pausini song comes out, there is no way we’re not going to listen to it. And that happened just a little over a week ago, when Io sì came out. You just cannot deny her voice (and if you need a translation- she has a English version but nothing will compare to the Italian version.

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Family Immigration Italian American Gratitude Challenge

Italian-American Gratitude Challenge #3 – My Country

It is only fitting that today’s gratitude goes to my my country on this day when we are called upon to cast our vote. Whatever side you are on, it is your right and duty to vote. Of course, tensions are very high and both sides are hoping for the best possible outcome but in the end, it is a right that we have here that still today in other nations their population does not have.

Life in Italy after the Second World War was difficult. Nobody could know what life would have been had they not been brave enough to leave everything and everyone behind but we do know about the life they made here. And it was a good one. Of course things were not always so easy, as I imagine any immigrant could attest to but once they established themselves and had jobs, a house and all the necessities, things certainly got better and the generations to follow have benefited immensely from their courage.

Although Italians were not always welcomed with open arms to our country, I am grateful that over the years, this country has come to embrace all things Italian. Italian has become synonymous with high quality products, high fashion and of course, gastronomic heaven. This shift in our country’s acceptance has made it easy to be proud of my heritage. It has made it easier to connect with my culture without even needing to leave my country. Italians have come a long way and have made great advances in careers. They have created organizations like NIAF (National Italian American Foundation) which create a bridge for Americans of Italian descent and promote the culture. Italian Americans have created new businesses that aim to share and appreciate our heritage with everyone. One of these that comes to mind is Cooking with Nonna. Rossella Rago’s business brings Italian products and recipes not just to Italian-Americans but to everyone.

In short, I am so grateful that Italian culture is embraced in my country so that I can enjoy the lifestyle that I do. I will add here that I hope that other cultures and peoples could be equally accepted like this eventually. It will only enrich our country.

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Family Food Italian American Gratitude Challenge

Italian-American Gratitude Challenge #2 – Food

The comfort of Italian and Italian-American food is something special. It is most often simple but made with love that envelops your every sense. What could be better that waking up to the aroma of sauce on the stove followed by the frying of some meatballs that will be added to the sauce to simmer until the sauce reaches the color, taste and smell of perfection? It is one of my favorite ways to start my Sunday. That’s just a small morsel of my love affair with Italian cuisine.

The very first Italian food I learned to prepare were chicken cutlets. Chicken, egg, bread crumbs and into a pan of hot olive oil. Simple but certainly a staple in my diet since I first learned to make them while I was still in elementary school. One thing that I learned from my mother was to use the leftover egg and breadcrumbs to make what we called “pancakes.” I still do it and I never get tired of them. A funny story I have about chicken cutlets is when I was shopping at Bath and Body Works with my wife. She was buying some chocolate scented body something-or-other. The cashier says “I bet it’s hard to stay away from her with that scent.” I just looked at her dead serious and said, “That would be true if it were chicken cutlet scent.” True story.

Orecchiette baresi with crumbled sausage and broccoli rabe, chicken cutlets (of course) and some roasted potatoes

If you think about it, all the delicious words in English have been borrowed from Italian. Pasta, pizza, mozzarella, ravioli and gelato pop right into my mind. You’d be hard-pressed to find anyone who didn’t know these words and, I think, even more hard-pressed to find that they didn’t love these things. I’m pretty sure that many non Italian-Americans might even know what a frittata is, can name quite a few Italian cheeses and many types of pasta shapes.

Zucchini frittata, a summer staple

I feel both grateful and spoiled by being born Italian-American. I have been eating homemade sauce, pasta and pizza since I can remember. Over the years, I have come a long way from making chicken cutlets. I have learned from books, magazines, television shows and so many people on social media. I have learned to make some dishes from my wife and her family who come from a different region than my family does. One of the fan favorites in our house are panzerotti. They are from Puglia, on Italy’s heel, and are like mini pizza pockets that you can fill with whatever you like. I’ve also started to adapt recipes to my own tastes and so far no one seems upset in my house.

One thing that I do make from time to time is chicken cutlet parmigiana. While this dish is only something you’d find in an Italian-American restaurant or household and might confuse Italians from Italy, it is still delicious and a crowd-pleaser. Our ancestors brought their culinary expertise and over time, we have adapted some dishes but that doesn’t make them any less satisfying or make us any less Italian.

Chicken cutlet parmigiana- not an authentic Italian dish but comforting just the same.

Food can arguably be one of the most important facets of Italian-American life, after family. During the quarantine this year, I took the opportunity to share my love of cooking with my one of my sons. My other son is mostly interested in eating what we make more than making it. I hope I’ve given him some invaluable lessons and hope that he’ll continue to prepare some of our favorites. If you have any stories about food you’d like to share or want to share a recipe or your go-to Italian comfort foods, please share!

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Education Family Italian American Gratitude Challenge Uncategorized

Italian-American Gratitude Challenge #1 – Family

Although this year has been a very tough one for many of us, that doesn’t mean that we have to be consumed by despair. It is all too easy to give in to negative feelings and to let it fester in us until it becomes downright depressing. When I saw a post by a fellow language teacher, Samara Spielberg (@SamaraSpielberg on Twitter), in which she explained that she would be participating in a 30-day gratitude challenge that she had created with her students, I was immediately taken by the idea. What a great idea! This can be both educational and restorative. It’s not that I hadn’t discussed gratitude in my language classes before, but this year it seems as if we could certainly benefit from this so I decided to do something very similar with my students in an effort to help them better their language skills and to boost our morale in these very uncertain times.

At first, when I started to think about what kind of blog post I was going to work on this weekend, I had a bit of a block. I had a bunch of ideas but not sure any of them were exactly what I was feeling this week and then I had a thought, what if I did something similar to what I was asking my students to do but with a bit more focus? And so this is how I decided to make my own 30-day Italian-American Gratitude Challenge; focusing on the things that I am grateful for. My goal is to post every day in November and my hope is that I will come out of this experience refreshed and appreciative of all I have – a kind of soul reboot in a time when things seem like they can go either way. If you’d like to join me in this challenge, I’d be honored to read your comments.

First and foremost, I have to be thankful for everything that I have and everything that I am because of my family. Their influence, whether positive, negative or somewhere in between, has shaped the person I am. Nobody is perfect but everyone plays a role.

Although not all of my ancestors came from Italy, the ones that did had the strongest influence on me. I felt closest to my maternal grandparents, who had emigrated to the United States in the 1950’s. When I was younger, I would spend a few weeks every summer with them. My grandmother would cook and cook and then cook some more. My grandfather would teach me how to recognize all the plants in his garden (he grew everything) and I would help him to gather the tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, figs or whatever happened to be ripe at the time. You could never go hungry in that house!

Aside from all the eating, I would play Italian cards, watch tv with them, go for walks with my grandfather and listen to their endless stories of Italy and how they came to America. My grandmother was so proud of me when I wrote a story about her coming to America while I was in elementary school. “My grandson – he wrote the book, ” she would tell people. It was probably no more than one page but she was proud nonetheless. My grandparents had sacrificed and worked hard to create a new and better life for their family. Although their sacrifices might have seemed to be of immediate necessity, their dedication to their family was something that would live on longer than them and hopefully continue throughout all generations to come. My grandmother does have a very interesting story and if you’re interested, check out another post of mine – Our family lives on in their stories.

I always knew that my Italian heritage was important to me. It was, and still is, a large part of who I am. My decision to study Italian in college was not a whim- it was a necessity for me. I wanted to be closer to my heritage and I felt as if I couldn’t fully appreciate it until I immersed myself in the language and traveled to the land of my ancestors. When I first set foot in Italy during my first study abroad experience, I was flooded with emotions I never even knew I had.

Having a family of my own was never a question for me. Sharing my love for all things Italian was just as important to me. It was not long after I began dating my wife, Teresa, that I knew she would be the perfect match for me. She was a first-generation Italian-American, she spoke Italian and shared a love of all things Italian. Although we can be very different, we share the same core values and that’s why our family is so strong.

Teresa’s family welcomed me into their family right away as one of their own – even before we were married. I can honestly say that I have never felt an outsider when I am with them. When I was studying in Italy, I had even gone to stay with some of her family without ever meeting them! They never questioned anything. All they had to know was that Teresa and her family in America trusted and accepted me. It could have been awkward but for some reason, it never felt that way.

My own Italian cousins, who I had not grown up knowing, had also welcomed me as if I had always been a part of their family. I was lucky enough to stay in the town my grandmother grew up in and to be able to visit my grandfather’s hometown as well. And thanks to social media and technology, we are able to stay connected.

I had never seen my grandparents as happy as they were the day of my wedding. It was as if they had understood then how all of their sacrifices had paid off with interest. When my grandmother would later be able to meet my own children, she would often tell me that she never imagined she would meet her great-grandchildren with such pride in her eyes. I am sure that my grandfather would have felt the same if he were here when they were born. Now that they are no longer here, it seems increasingly more important to me to write their story so that it can be recorded forever and will be passed on to my children and hopefully, their future generations.

When my sons were born, I never imagined that I would have been able to feel so much without bursting. They are the reason that I work as hard as I do. I imagine that my grandparents, parents and in-laws felt the same when they began their families. You don’t have to be rich or famous to have a family but having the one I do makes me feel as if I won the lottery. I couldn’t be richer than this.

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Family Travel

Italy’s least known region of Molise exists: check it out!

Il Molise non esiste (Molise doesn’t exist). Molise, Italy’s second smallest region and youngest region became a meme a few years ago but now it seems things are changing for the region. The mere fact that almost everyone in Italy has heard this joke that Il Molise non esiste brings it attention- and hopefully a reason to visit to discover whether or not it is just an urban legend. Searching #ilmolisenonesiste, I came across some very interesting posts that I thought were shareworthy.

My cousin, Giusy D’Alessandro was a contestant on an Italian show, Bake Off Italia, and in her interview she makes reference to the joke saying right off the bat that Molise does exist.

I have always known that Molise did exist since my grandmother was from Bojano, in the province of Campobasso. I began studying Italian in college and soon after, my cousin, Alessandro, and my Zia Maria came to visit. I was excited to meet them and Alessandro even came to stay for a while at my house, while my Zia Maria stayed with my grandparents. After their visit, I said I would one day come and visit them in Bojano. It was only a short time after, during my study abroad experience with NYU, that I was able to visit. Bojano was vastly different than Florence, where I was studying, but it was the place my family came from and I felt like it was the “real” Italy. My mother had come with me on this trip and it was her first time back in Italy after she had left when she was two years old. We were there for a short time but it was an experience we will always remember. After just a day or two, we felt as if we had been with these people our entire lives and we quickly felt at home. We visited Cività di Bojano and nearby Sepino with its Roman ruins. Many people don’t realize that the Roman Empire wasn’t just central Italy but extended beyond Rome and far beyond the Italian peninsula. Bojano, as a town, predates even the Romans. It was actually settled in the 7th century BC and its name is a derivative of the name Bovianum. A legend is told that some Samnite people were sent off to colonize and their ox had stopped here to drink and that is where these Samnites decided to settle. Bojano lays in the foothills of the Matese Mountains, where my cousins often go skiing and is along the Biferno river.

Needless to say, when I saw a posting on the NIAF Instagram page about a film called My Country which took place in Molise, I had to see this film. Luckily, I was able to stream it on Amazon Prime Video here. This is where I first learned about this joke Il Molise non esiste.

The movie is directed by Giancarlo Iannotta, who also stars in the film about an Italian-American who learns just before his father’s death that he has an Italian half-brother. Soon after Lucky (the protagonist) finds out, he does what most of us do when we want to find someone- we head to social media. Lucky finds his Italian brother and decides that he must go to Italy to meet him and to go to the town where his father was born and raised, Castel San Vincenzo, in Molise. When Lucky meets his brother and tells him, the reaction is exactly what the joke brings out in people. Francesco, Lucky’s brother, is floored that anyone would ever want to go to Molise, the region that doesn’t exist. Nonetheless, he does accompany Lucky to Molise and this is where we get to see how charming and untouched Italy can be. It is here where we understand friendliness can be instant and that a region that doesn’t exist is worth the detour off the beaten path. My Country has the potential to put Molise on the travel itineraries of Americans who have only thought of visiting Rome, Venice and Florence.

Castel San Vincenzo, Molise Photo courtesy of Giancarlo Iannotta

I was fortunate enough to be able to ask Giancarlo some questions about the film and about his connection to Italy and Molise. Giancarlo’s Italian heritage has been an important part of his life. His nonno, Felice Iannotta, emigrated to Chicago in 1956, in search of the American Dream. He, like many before him, worked tirelessly to create a better life, earn enough to bring the rest of his family over and give future generations opportunities they couldn’t have had in Italy. As members of the Chicago Molisani Club, Giancarlo and his family have enjoyed keeping their heritage and Molise in their hearts. Here is some of my interview:

What was the inspiration for the film? Had you previously traveled to Italy? The inspiration for My Country first started when I moved to Italy five-ish years ago. I had a wonderful “late in life” study abroad and was inspired to make my first feature based on my experiences living in Rome and going to Molise on the weekends. While in Rome, I worked part-time as a tour guide driving tourists around in that vintage Fiat 500 in the film and used that as the catalyst for the brothers to start their road trip. Traveling to Molise since I was 12, I always wanted to put my father’s hometown Castel San Vincenzo. My first memories of being in Italy were in 2001 when I was 12 years old and was completely in awe. From the incredible historical sites of Rome to walking around my father’s hometown, it was my dream to document those experiences and the ones that followed in some way… but never imagined I would make a feature film there!

How did you cast your film? I wrote the first draft of the screenplay in Rome and then came back to the States for a couple of months to start raising production funds. With my producers, we started assembling our crew and then put out a casting notice on the Italian version of Craigslist. Our actress Rosella came directly from a video submission and then Antonio, my brother in the film, I saw in a short film directed by a good friend who was also my assistant on the movie. I used a lot of my aunts, uncles and cousins in supporting parts and extras.

What were the best experiences filming and what were some difficulties? Any interesting anecdotes? As it says in the My Country poster “embrace the bumps and detours…” and we surely did! Whether it was losing a location, our boom microphone breaking or a flat tire on the Fiat 500, making a low budget independent film is an uphill battle but ultimately came with many more enlightening moments. First, getting to direct in Italian was something I never thought I’d do in my wildest dreams. Watching great actors every day saying my lines brought the script to life in more ways than I could’ve thought possible. My favorite memory, although chaotic in the moment, was seeing my cousins, great aunt and great uncle improvising during the gnocchi scene (my favorite of the entire film). They had never been on camera and with just a little explanation of the scene before shooting, they were so impressive and truly naturals!

Are there any plans for a sequel? Will Lucky and his brother have any other stories to tell? I think the ending of the movie definitely sets up the Francesco and Anna characters to potentially come to the States. Chissà! Who knows! It’s pretty ambitious to make your first feature film in a foreign country so maybe a more local story would be ideal.

For more information on the film, visit mycountryfilm.com

Giancarlo Iannotta, director of My Country

My Country is well worth streaming. I recommend it to Americans and Italians. It’s time for everyone to think outside the box and visit some of Italy’s hidden (until now) treasures. Molise does exist and if you are looking for some more information on what you can do in Molise, I recommend you visit My Italian Diaries. Valentina has a passion for her country and has written two posts that highlight Molise. The first gives you six great reasons to visit Molise and the second, brings you to Civitacampomarano, where a local festival of street art is so beautifully done that it’s on my list of places to visit!

If you’d like to delve a bit more into the national joke, Il Molise non esiste, check out this blog post by Alex Sakalis. He goes into the beginnings and how Molise has turned this around to bring tourists into their region. He also highlights towns to visit through his own experience traveling to the least known region of Italy. After reading this, you’ll be intrigued enough to include Molise on your next Italian vacation.

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Family Immigration Travel

Why young Italians are moving out of their small hometowns

At the beginning of the 20th century, Italians were leaving Il bel Paese in search of a better life and opportunities that Italy couldn’t offer them. It was an Italy that would have not made it onto everyone’s bucket list of places to visit in their lifetime. It was a different Italy that was suffering; causing many to leave their homeland and settle in new countries near and far.

Nowadays, things are very different. Italy still may not have the economy Italians would hope for, but it has come a long way. According to U.S. News and World Report, two Italian destinations are in the top 20 places in the world to visit. Almost everyone I speak to has either been there or plans to visit. Applications for dual citizenship have increased exponentially in the last few years. Many are seeking a place to retire or to visit and feel connected to their roots. Many hope to even be able to connect with relatives from their ancestors’ home towns. When they arrive, will there be generations still living there?

Although Italy is doing much better than at the beginning of the 1900’s, it is still hard to make a life there in many places, especially the south. Southern Italians have been making their way to northern cities for work for a while now. Even though it is still a move within the same country and Italy is relatively small, many Italians feel a deep attachment to their small towns and to their families. A cousin of mine said that he had moved north in the hopes of remaining in Italy. Luckily, he was able to find a job in the import-export business in Trieste and has been there now for seven years. Recently, I asked this cousin, Alessandro, about his decision to move north to get his perspective.

Alessandro was born and raised in Bojano, Italy. Bojano is located in the province of Campobasso, in the Molise region. Molise is the second smallest region in size and population. As of 2019, the population of Bojano was 7,829. Trieste’s population by comparison is 204, 267.

Here is my interview with Alessandro:

How was it growing up in Bojano? Growing up in Bojano was really nice. I really had a great childhood here. It was your average small town life, without the chaos of a large city. Everyone knows everyone, from the butcher to the mailman. It was a more tranquil life without all of the frenzy of the city. It was like living surrounded by your extended family. The air is cleaner and since Bojano is a hilltown, you can enjoy nature walks. It is easy to leave your car behind and use your bicycle more.

Did you ever think you would have to move to another region in Italy? Actually, no. It all happened very quickly. It was a sudden, unexpected move; one I didn’t have much opportunity to think about. I had always thought that Bojano was where I would grow old but in the end, everything changes. But that’s alright because I’m doing well here in Trieste and I have no regrets.

How did you decide on Trieste? I chose Trieste because my wife’s brother already lived here for some time. But this isn’t the real reason that we live here now. After I left Bojano, I worked as as substitute teacher in Udine and then Belluno. Later on, I had sent my resumé in the Trieste area and in the end, found my current job here.

How do you feel about living in Trieste? Trieste is an amazing city with mountains and sea so I felt comfortable right away after having lived in Bojano, in the foothills of the Matese Mountains. Trieste is very multicultural and also very livable. Initially, the triestini don’t treat you like you’re one of them as we would do in the south but once they get to know you, they are very friendly. There are also so many beautiful things to see here from the Piazza Unità d’Italia, the church of San Giusto to the many Austrian-style buildings; a reminder that Trieste once belonged to the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

*Interesting facts:

  • Trieste was the fourth largest city in the Austro-Hungarian Empire.
  • Trieste has been compared to New York due to its diverse ethnic populations.
  • From 1947-1954, the area of Trieste was called the Free Territory of Trieste, maintained under military occupation by the United States and Britain.

What are some things you like and dislike about living in Trieste? Honestly, I feel like I am doing so well here that there isn’t much I don’t like; maybe the food a little bit.

*Cultural note: If you didn’t know this already, the food in Italy varies from region to region and is very different from north to south. Italians generally have a soft spot for a nice typical, home-cooked meal that reminds them where they are from.

Was it difficult to integrate with the locals (triestini)? Were there times when you weren’t able to understand each other due to linguistic differences? As I said earlier, the triestini need some time to get to know you before they are really friendly and open with you unlike southerners who are friendly from the get-go. However, in the end, they are truly good people. They are very social and enjoy being together with their friends. Initially it was difficult to understand them because they speak often in dialect. After 7 years here I am able to understand them but I don’t really like to speak as they do. I accept that they speak the way they do but I just can’t feel comfortable speaking their dialect.

*Cultural note: There are many, many dialects in Italy. Every region has their own way of speaking and within the region, there could be as many dialects as there are towns! On a small island, there are three different dialects! Dialects differ more the further you travel so my cousin’s dialect is strikingly different from his new friends’ dialect. Not only can pronunciation be different but words can also be completely different. The one thing that I think many Italians will agree upon, no matter where they are from, is that their dialect is a part of what make them them and makes them feel a strong tie to their hometowns.

Alessandro and some friends out for a meal in Trieste

What are the things you miss the most about Bojano and how often do you go back to Bojano? I really don’t miss that much about Bojano; mostly my friends and family. I usually visit once or twice a year but my parents often come to visit me in Trieste as well.

Alessandro’s parents come to Trieste to visit him and his wife, Roberta

If you could go back to live in Bojano, would you? I don’t honestly think that I would right now, but who knows what the future holds?

It was nice to catch up with Alessandro. I’m glad that he is doing well in Trieste.

Many smaller towns in Southern Italy have been losing residents for some time now. Some town have even taken to offering up homes for 1 euro (there are some strings to this deal, however) to bring people and life back into their small towns. Tourism can also help, if more people visit, there will be a need for more jobs. Some regions, like Molise, might be next to be discovered by a new wave of tourists. Check out this post!

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Family Travel

Suvereto: The Accidental Trip Memories are made of!

I will admit that I am one of those people who keeps thousands of photos on my phone for a few reasons. One is that I am just too lazy to upload them to the computer and in some way I am nervous that if I upload them and delete them from my phone, anything could happen and those photos will be lost forever. The second reason is that I love having at my fingertips thousands of memories. Scrolling through my photos gives me comfort and helps me appreciate all the things I have, the people in my life and the experiences I’ve had.

Right now, travel has been put on hold due to Covid-19 but that shouldn’t stop us from making future plans because this will get better, we will travel again. So maybe now is a good time to start doing some research on places you’d like to visit. If you’re thinking of visiting Italy ( I mean, who isn’t?), I’ve got another hidden gem for you to check out: Suvereto.

Suvereto, is a small medieval village in central Tuscany in the Val di Cornia. It is located about 98 miles south of Florence and 52 miles south of Livorno. It takes its name from the latin suber , or cork wood, because of the many cork oak trees that surround the area. The first mention of this village goes back to 973 according to their town history. Its stone walls and streets will transport you back in time and make you feel at home, all at the same time.

Looking out from our private yard

I am always looking to visit small towns or villages in Italy after the main tourist attractions. It’s a way to see the “real” Italy and gain a deeper appreciation for what it really means to live La dolce vita. Major cities like Rome, Venice and Florence are favorite destinations for a reason but there is just something about slowing down and exploring areas not overrun (for now!) by hordes of tourists. The association, I borghi più belli d’Italia (The most beautiful villages of Italy), which was created in 2001 to promote tourism and appreciation of all the beauty, culture, and history small towns in Italy have to offer, has Suvereto as one of their featured towns. Check it out here.

I came across Suvereto when I was doing some research on where to stay if I wanted to visit the island of Elba but have a home base on the mainland. My goal was to take a ferry from Piombino to Elba to celebrate my birthday but wanted to stay somewhere charming. I had originally found an apartment to rent in Caldana but after messaging back and forth with the owner and having some troubles, I had to scrap that place and start over. I searched the airbnb site for places to stay near Caldana and came across this listing. The apartment itself seemed to fit our needs and price range so I started to look into the town of Suvereto. What I can say now is that I am so glad I had so many issues with the place in Caldana that forced me to cancel and find Domenico’s apartment.

First of all, Domenico was easy to work with, and was very accomodating from the get-go. I’m not sure if he speaks English since I communicated with him in Italian, but I am sure that he must speak some English since I see that after being the first Americans to stay in his place, there was another couple from America that stayed there. His place has everything you can need, 2 bedrooms, a bathroom with a tub, a kitchen, living room and the best part- a gorgeous private garden! Parking is nearby and free and the apartment is located right in the heart of the town. It’s only a few minutes walk before you reach the main road and piazza.

Suvereto has many restaurants to keep you happily fed for the entire time you are there. However, there was one pizzeria which we loved for the pizza and for the fact that it was located in what used to be a movie theater! The upstairs of Bar Torrione Pizzeria Spaghetteria da Gegè still has movie theater seats in the upper level, if you eat inside. Of course, we ate inside and outside! With two kids, pizza is always one of the best options.

Another really happy coincidence was that we happened to be staying the week that Suvereto hosts Serate medievali or Medieval Nights every year in July. We just happened to be staying there the right week! Each evening, the town transforms into a medieval town, burlap over the street lights, parades of people in costumes, medieval games, food and a different show each night. One night, we were entertained by a fire breathing, tight-rope walking performer followed by a medieval procession and dancing after eating probably the best sausage sandwich. A really nice touch is that you are able to exchange your euros for medieval coins to pay for the food or games.

During the day, thanks to Domenico’s suggestion, we visited nearby Baratti beach. This beach along the Etruscan coast is well-known to locals but is well worth your trip there. On one side, you have the gorgeous, clear water of the Gulf of Baratti, which when you look close looks as if it is shimmering with the metals that were once mined by the Etruscans, and other side a pine forest. Parking is available for pay at the beach. There are also two restaurants on site. You will have to bring your own umbrellas and chairs, however. If you’re visiting in the summer, Baratti is a must!

Other day trips we made from our home base in Suvereto are Livorno, the capital of the province, Volterra, Sovana, Sorano and the island of Elba. These are certainly not an exhaustive list of possibilities but we only had a week there.

Livorno, the provincial capital was a nice day trip and only about an hour drive north. We easily parked on the street and just walked around the area near the water to discover what Livorno had to offer. We found the Terrazza Mascagni to be a nice first stop where we could walk along the water while taking in incredible views and do some people-watching. There were bathers, fishers and of course other people just walking along the terrace as we did. We stopped nearby for a bite to eat, but I will say this, if you are afraid of birds (as I am), you might want to eat inside if you’re near the water! Our next stop was the aquarium. The aquarium was well-organized and not overwhelming to visit. The kids had a blast!

Terrazza Mascagni, Livorno

Another day trip was to Volterra, another Etruscan hilltop town. Some may recognize Volterra from Stephenie Meyer’s Twilight series. Luckily, we did not encounter any vampires, but we did have a nice day just walking around and taking in the city. Once you climb the stairs to enter the walled city, you can easily walk through the city. There are plenty of restaurants and shops to keep you busy for the whole day. We were happy to just wander around and enjoy the city vibe but if you like more info on the many things to see, check out this post from Discover Tuscany.

Volterra

I had read about the Vie cave or the excavated roads made by the Etruscans of the tufa rock. We started by visiting the tiny town of Sovana. Here, we walked through the one road town and visited the Museo di Mamiliano, where you can find the bones of Saint Mamiliano. We also went into a shop that specialized in alabaster products, which are well-known in this area. We made a few purchases to bring home as gifts and then headed out to explore the Vie cave. I will admit they were a bit difficult to find driving but we eventually did and were able to walk through some of these ancient roads that pre-date the Romans.

Finally, we did get to visit the island of Elba. We booked the ferry ride with Corsica-Sardinia Ferries easily. We did take our car on the ferry since after reading up on Elba, it seemed to reach certain areas, especially some of the best beaches, we would need a car. We did walk around the port area and the downtown area a bit but our real goal was to have a beach day. The drive to Scaglieri beach was a bit scary for my wife but once we got down to the beach, everyone was so helpful and welcoming. The parking attendants right across from the beach took the car, and also set us up with umbrellas and chairs for four for just about $50! The beach did not disappoint! The water was amazing! It was a sandy beach with crystal-clear water. My kids met a local around their age who they played with until we went to eat something at the beach restaurant. The restaurant had something for everyone, was economical, delicious and gorgeous views of the beach. Our day could not have been more perfect. We boarded our return ferry and headed back to Suvereto that evening.

Unfortunately, our vacation had to come to an end and we had to head back to reality but making Suvereto a home away from home may one day become a reality. My wife and I have often discussed owning a home in Italy but we were never really sure where. We have family spread out all over Italy and we have traveled pretty extensively but could never really agree on where to make our Italian dream become a reality. Suvereto changed this. We don’t often agree on a decision this big but we can say that Suvereto has the feel of a small town we could see ourselves spending our time in while still being within driving distance to so many other towns waiting to be explored.

Categories
Family Immigration Travel

How I found my roots and built my family tree

I’ve always been interested in the origins of my family. I have always asked questions because I wanted to know more. My father’s side of the family was from Poland, Austria and Russia. I knew this but when I asked my father about his family, he would always say he didn’t know much and that he was proud to be an American. I always thought it strange that he didn’t ever ask his father who was an immigrant from Poland about his story. A few years back, he gave me my grandfather’s Polish passport and other documentation. I thought it was like hitting the jackpot. Holding in my hand the very passport that my grandfather, whom I never had the opportunity to meet, carried across an ocean towards a better life. Although my dad might have said he didn’t care much for the story of his family, when he passed this year I found that he saved a suitcase full of of photos and momentos. It’s been speculated that this was the suitcase that his father used when he came to America. I guess my dad cared more about his family’s memories more than he let on.

My grandfather’s suitcase

On my mother’s side, it was completely different. I was fortunate to have had a long relationship with my grandparents. They came from Italy in the early 1950s and always talked about Italy. The stories they have told have been ingrained in my memory and really fostered my desire to know more about my roots and where I came from. Although there are a number of relatives here in America, there are many still in Italy. My grandfather was the only one of his siblings to come to America and my grandmother left behind two of her brothers.

The year before I did a study abroad program in Florence, my grandfather’s sister, Maria, came to visit with her grandson, Alessandro. I had been studying Italian for about a year and a half. I was beyond excited to meet them and practice my Italian. Looking back, I think I did pretty well but my Italian wasn’t what it is today by any means. Alessandro and I had hit it off and he even came to stay at my house for a while. Even though my grandfather had said to me when I told him that I was going to learn Italian, “What are you going to do for the Italian?” (You need to say that with a heavy Italian accent and I promise it will make sense), I think he was so proud that I was able to communicate with my cousin and my Zia Maria.

After my zia and my cousin left, I told them that I would be coming to Italy to study and I changed my major in order to become an Italian teacher. I kept in touch with Alessandro and when I had a break from school, my mother had come to visit and Alessandro came up to Florence with his father to bring us down to the town where my grandmother had grown up –Bojano. I was so excited to see where my grandmother had lived for 26 years before coming to America and where her family had had roots for many years. The feeling of being in the place where my grandmother was raised was indescribable. I felt as if I were meant to have made this trip and that it would forever change me. I met so many cousins and many of my grandparents’ siblings.

One thing that is particular to my family is that my grandparents families were extremely connected since my grandmother’s brother married my grandfather’s sister and my Zia Maria married my grandmother’s first cousin, Giuseppe. Since there were so many connections here, my cousins also took us to the town where my grandfather was born and raised – Conca della Campania. As soon as we arrived, I saw a man walking on the street and instantly knew who he was although we had never met before. He was my grandfather’s brother, Aurelio and he looked like a younger version of my grandfather. We walked through the town and even got to see the house where my mother was born. She had never seen it before either! Of course we visited the houses of each of my grandfather’s brothers before having a meal with Zio Aurelio and Zia Lina. I’ll never forget what Zio Aurelio said to me while we were eating our pasta (penne lisce – my grandfather’s favorite). He was studying me as I ate and he said to me, “You eat your pasta just like my brother!” It’s true. I slide my pasta onto my fork (short pasta, of course) instead of stabbing it, just like my grandfather. It made me proud and made me feel a part of the family.

At Zio Aurelio’s house in Conca della Campania

Since my first time in Italy, I have returned many times with student and adult tours and for family vacations. I have connected with more cousins and have been fortunate to have gotten to see many of them each time I go.

In 2010, I decided that I would finally take the time to put together my family tree. Genealogy had become very popular and websites were offering services to help you build your trees and help you to research all in one place. I chose to use Ancestry.com. I had a good start because I was able to ask my father about his side and even though he thought it was odd that I was doing this, he obliged me with names and relations. On my mother’s side, I reached out to some family in Italy asking if they had information and a few responded with some very detailed information. For the rest, I was on my own researching the website’s databases and other web sites.

You have to become somewhat of a detective to find information. I started with all the information I could gather from relatives and started from my generation and then going backwards. On my father’s side, I was only able to go back to my great-great grandparents on both his mother’s and father’s sides. Unfortunately, records from Poland, Austria and Russia (or wherever the country borders were at the time) are hard to come by and I am at a disadvantage not speaking any of those languages. On my mother’s side, I was able to go back as far as my six-times great grandparents! That puts me somewhere in the early 1700s!

What really helped in my research were a few things and could help you, too!

  • Talk to your living relatives and gather as much information as you can, even if dates are approximate. Write it all down!
  • Use the databases available to you on a website like ancestry.com or Family Search. Here you can find so much information like draft cards, census results, birth and death records, ship manifests. Many documents will give links to other family members. For example, a birth record will list parents names and ages, which will help you then look for their birth records and so on. A ship manifest will often show the next of kin left behind in the country of departure and their address. A census will tell you where they lived at the time, with whom and even professions.
  • If you are looking for records from Italy, many towns have digitized their birth, death and marriage records. I suggest checking out Antenati (it means ancestors in Italian). If you click on Browse the registries, then look for the Archivo di… and find the province of the town you are looking for. When you click on that particular archive link, it will then give you a choice of Stato civile napoleonico, Stato civile della restaurazione and Stato civile italiano. These go in chronological order starting around 1809 for napoleonico, 1816 for restaurazione and 1861 for italiano. When you choose one of these, then you will get a list of all towns available. Choose your town and start doing your detective work. *Hint: for some of these registries there will be an initial page that contains a list of all the births or deaths that might make it easier than opening each and every page.
  • If you are using Ancestry.com, then you might find other trees of users that have information to help you out. Make sure you review your hints!

It took me years to get to where I am because it takes a lot of patience and deciphering of Italian handwriting. Some years, the transcriber had easy to read handwriting and some years, it is chicken scratch, at best. Although it can be somewhat tedious, when you find a link, it really is a breakthrough and will give you the next piece of information that you need to go even further back.

There are some interesting things I was able to piece together when researching my family. One thing that I realized was how likely it was that children would not survive, as you go back further in time due to lack of resources but sometimes fate takes over. I was able to find both three-times great-grandmothers on my grandmother’s side. I learned that one of them had two husbands and five children but only one child made it to adulthood. The other, a single mother in 1845, had only one child who was born to an unknown father. These two children somehow were destined to be married and would end up being my grandmother’s grandparents. It made me appreciate that if the stars hadn’t aligned just the right way, I wouldn’t be here.

Another interesting story I learned after I was stopped dead in my tracks, not being able to go beyond my great-great-grandfather because he was born to an unknown father, was that this padre incerto was German. And he did not want a child or to marry. So he jumped off a balcony and survived. He then went back to Germany. This is the story that a cousin of mine told me. And this is the reason she believes that she has blue eyes and light hair. I have no way to prove it but it is a story that made its way to 2020 from 1845.

Right now, I’m at a bit of a stand-still because I can’t go back any further without accessing parochial records. For that, I’ll need to go to Italy. Ever since one of my cousins said to me that he thought we had some ancestors from Florence, it instantly became my mission to prove that I am related to Dante Alighieri. I guess that would explain my intense love of the language and why I chose to teach it. You might think I’m nuts and it might be a huge stretch and undertaking but after watching the tv show, Who do you think you are? and seeing that Cindy Crawford is related to Charlemagne, nothing is impossible.

Dante impersonator, Florence

Categories
Family Travel

Hidden Italy – Spice up your trip with something new

Rome, Florence, Venice – the triad of cities foreigners flock to when they visit Il bel paese and with good reason. They are probably the first cities that come to mind when planning a trip. Rome is where it all began, Florence is the cradle of the Renaissance and Venice’s canals and over 400 footbridges are definitely worth visiting and spending time exploring. As a university student, I lived in Florence for about a year and a half and I don’t think I could tire of spending time in Dante’s hometown.

When I am building an itinerary for a trip to Italy for my students, I try to find a good balance between what travelers expect to see and places they would never have even known about. I think this is a great way to really showcase all that Italy has to offer. Oftentimes, participants on my tours will tell me their favorite part of the tour was one of these little side-steps that we took. And when there’s a great story behind a town or site, even better!

If you’re visiting both Rome and Florence, I highly recommend taking the time to stop at the Sacro Bosco or Parco dei Mostri (The park of the Monsters) in Bomarzo. It’s a little over an hour drive north from Rome, on your way into Tuscany. You will not be disappointed and that is a promise.

The story behind this Parco dei Mostri is that, in the mid 16th century, Pier Francesco Orsini, also called Vicino Orsini, commissioned this park be built due to the immense grief that he felt when his wife, Giulia Farnese, passed away. The park was forgotten about until the 1950s and then underwent restorations and eventually opened to the public.

Visitors will find larger than life statues of monsters and creatures both real and mythical as they walk through the park. There is even a leaning “house” and a temple dedicated to Orsini’s wife. All throughout the gardens, you will also find that there are inscriptions on many of the sculptures.

This stop was such a hit with my students that when I visited Italy that summer with my family, I had to bring my own kids there. And as promised, it was the perfect stop on our way to stay in another off-the-beaten path medieval town for a week. But that’s for another post- look out for it!

Categories
Family Immigration

Our family lives on in their stories

Angelina was not supposed to survive. She would of course not know the details of her story until retold to her by her older brother years later.

My grandmother was one of the strongest women I have ever known. She sacrificed so much in order to come to America and make a better life for her then family of three. Even though she couldn’t have ever imagined, her sacrifices would have also benefited future generations. She was always so proud that I “wrote the book” about her immigration story when I was still in elementary school. Some day, I will write an actual book on her story because it is truly unique and there is more to it than one or even several blog posts could cover. So here’s her (abbreviated) story.

Angelina was born in Youngstown, Ohio to a shoemaker and a housewife. She had already had four siblings – all brothers. The oldest three had emigrated with their parents from a the small town, Bojano, in the second smallest and the last added as a separate region of Italy – Molise. As the story goes, Angelina’s mother did not want any more kids after her fourth son and so her doctor had given her something that would help abort the baby. This “medicine” clearly didn’t work. Angelina was small when she was born and the doctor, for fear of being blamed for any problems with the newborn, told her mother to return to Italy or they would both be in trouble. Angelina’s mother took his advice and boarded a ship with her five children. Nicola, Angelina’s father remained in Ohio to close his business and sell his home before he could return to Italy to join his family.

On the ship, Maria, Angelina’s mother had told her older sons to tell anyone who asked if she needed any help with the newborn to say that she was nursing her and everything was fine. This was untrue. Angelina soon stopped making sounds and moving. Maria had told the oldest brother that they would bury her when they got to Naples. However, when the baby started to shake, her brother got nervous and went to get help from a nurse on board. That nurse probably saved her life.

When Angelina arrived in Bojano, a wet nurse was found for her and she would take care of the baby. Mamma Maria Giuseppa and Papà Giovanni would always have a special place in Angelina’s heart. Angelina thrived and at the age of sixteen, with her father, opened a restaurant in town. It was at this restaurant that she would meet my grandfather, Ranieri, who was in town installing electricity after WWII. They married and had a daughter, Lattanina. Times and circumstances were difficult in Italy at this time, so Nicola, Angelina’s father, had arranged for his daughter to go back to where she was born.

Angelina had no idea up until the day her father had arranged for her to return that she had been born in America. He had saved all of her papers and made the arrangements. Angelina left behind her husband and daughter and set out to make a better life for her family. She would stay with my grandfather’s cousin in New Jersey and work hard in a factory to piece work until she had enough money saved to send for her husband and daughter – and she did – after only eighteen months.

My grandparents worked hard to achieve the American dream and were successful.

Ever since I can remember, I had always been close with my grandparents. I would often spend a few weeks in the summer with them in their house in New Jersey. When I would stay with them, they would always tell me stories about Italy and family. I would play Scopa (an Italian card game) with my grandmother, take walks with my grandfather and eat – a lot. My grandmother was probably one of the best cooks in the world. I was once asked by a teacher where my favorite place to eat was and I said, “Grandma’s.” She asked me where that restaurant was and I replied that it wasn’t a restaurant, it was my grandmother’s house in New Jersey.

I am so lucky to have had my grandparents for so many years in my life. My grandfather passed away months before my first son was born and my grandmother passed away two years ago, when I was 43. I’ll never forget all the stories and the memories of their garden that grew EVERYTHING. My grandmother was always there for me and I am grateful that I was able to be there for her, in return, even when she passed.

Family stories are so much a part of us. Sharing them keeps them alive. If you have a story you’d like to share, leave a comment and make sure to keep telling them in your family.