Bojano – Matt's Italian Playlist

Il Molise non esiste (Molise doesn’t exist). Molise, Italy’s second smallest region and youngest region became a meme a few years ago but now it seems things are changing for the region. The mere fact that almost everyone in Italy has heard this joke that Il Molise non esiste brings it attention- and hopefully a reason to visit to discover whether or not it is just an urban legend. Searching #ilmolisenonesiste, I came across some very interesting posts that I thought were shareworthy.

Fabio Lucarelli visited Civitacampomarano in Molise. His post tells us that soon people will be talking about it.

My cousin, Giusy D’Alessandro was a contestant on an Italian show, Bake Off Italia, and in her interview she makes reference to the joke saying right off the bat that Molise does exist.

I have always known that Molise did exist since my grandmother was from Bojano, in the province of Campobasso. I began studying Italian in college and soon after, my cousin, Alessandro, and my Zia Maria came to visit. I was excited to meet them and Alessandro even came to stay for a while at my house, while my Zia Maria stayed with my grandparents. After their visit, I said I would one day come and visit them in Bojano. It was only a short time after, during my study abroad experience with NYU, that I was able to visit. Bojano was vastly different than Florence, where I was studying, but it was the place my family came from and I felt like it was the “real” Italy. My mother had come with me on this trip and it was her first time back in Italy after she had left when she was two years old. We were there for a short time but it was an experience we will always remember. After just a day or two, we felt as if we had been with these people our entire lives and we quickly felt at home. We visited Cività di Bojano and nearby Sepino with its Roman ruins. Many people don’t realize that the Roman Empire wasn’t just central Italy but extended beyond Rome and far beyond the Italian peninsula. Bojano, as a town, predates even the Romans. It was actually settled in the 7th century BC and its name is a derivative of the name Bovianum. A legend is told that some Samnite people were sent off to colonize and their ox had stopped here to drink and that is where these Samnites decided to settle. Bojano lays in the foothills of the Matese Mountains, where my cousins often go skiing and is along the Biferno river.

Needless to say, when I saw a posting on the NIAF Instagram page about a film called My Country which took place in Molise, I had to see this film. Luckily, I was able to stream it on Amazon Prime Video here. This is where I first learned about this joke Il Molise non esiste.

The movie is directed by Giancarlo Iannotta, who also stars in the film about an Italian-American who learns just before his father’s death that he has an Italian half-brother. Soon after Lucky (the protagonist) finds out, he does what most of us do when we want to find someone- we head to social media. Lucky finds his Italian brother and decides that he must go to Italy to meet him and to go to the town where his father was born and raised, Castel San Vincenzo, in Molise. When Lucky meets his brother and tells him, the reaction is exactly what the joke brings out in people. Francesco, Lucky’s brother, is floored that anyone would ever want to go to Molise, the region that doesn’t exist. Nonetheless, he does accompany Lucky to Molise and this is where we get to see how charming and untouched Italy can be. It is here where we understand friendliness can be instant and that a region that doesn’t exist is worth the detour off the beaten path. My Country has the potential to put Molise on the travel itineraries of Americans who have only thought of visiting Rome, Venice and Florence.

Castel San Vincenzo, Molise Photo courtesy of Giancarlo Iannotta

I was fortunate enough to be able to ask Giancarlo some questions about the film and about his connection to Italy and Molise. Giancarlo’s Italian heritage has been an important part of his life. His nonno, Felice Iannotta, emigrated to Chicago in 1956, in search of the American Dream. He, like many before him, worked tirelessly to create a better life, earn enough to bring the rest of his family over and give future generations opportunities they couldn’t have had in Italy. As members of the Chicago Molisani Club, Giancarlo and his family have enjoyed keeping their heritage and Molise in their hearts. Here is some of my interview:

What was the inspiration for the film? Had you previously traveled to Italy? The inspiration for My Country first started when I moved to Italy five-ish years ago. I had a wonderful “late in life” study abroad and was inspired to make my first feature based on my experiences living in Rome and going to Molise on the weekends. While in Rome, I worked part-time as a tour guide driving tourists around in that vintage Fiat 500 in the film and used that as the catalyst for the brothers to start their road trip. Traveling to Molise since I was 12, I always wanted to put my father’s hometown Castel San Vincenzo. My first memories of being in Italy were in 2001 when I was 12 years old and was completely in awe. From the incredible historical sites of Rome to walking around my father’s hometown, it was my dream to document those experiences and the ones that followed in some way… but never imagined I would make a feature film there!

Vintage Fiat 500 driven by Francesco and Lucky

How did you cast your film? I wrote the first draft of the screenplay in Rome and then came back to the States for a couple of months to start raising production funds. With my producers, we started assembling our crew and then put out a casting notice on the Italian version of Craigslist. Our actress Rosella came directly from a video submission and then Antonio, my brother in the film, I saw in a short film directed by a good friend who was also my assistant on the movie. I used a lot of my aunts, uncles and cousins in supporting parts and extras.

What were the best experiences filming and what were some difficulties? Any interesting anecdotes? As it says in the My Country poster “embrace the bumps and detours…” and we surely did! Whether it was losing a location, our boom microphone breaking or a flat tire on the Fiat 500, making a low budget independent film is an uphill battle but ultimately came with many more enlightening moments. First, getting to direct in Italian was something I never thought I’d do in my wildest dreams. Watching great actors every day saying my lines brought the script to life in more ways than I could’ve thought possible. My favorite memory, although chaotic in the moment, was seeing my cousins, great aunt and great uncle improvising during the gnocchi scene (my favorite of the entire film). They had never been on camera and with just a little explanation of the scene before shooting, they were so impressive and truly naturals!

Are there any plans for a sequel? Will Lucky and his brother have any other stories to tell? I think the ending of the movie definitely sets up the Francesco and Anna characters to potentially come to the States. Chissà! Who knows! It’s pretty ambitious to make your first feature film in a foreign country so maybe a more local story would be ideal.

For more information on the film, visit mycountryfilm.com

Giancarlo Iannotta, director of My Country

My Country is well worth streaming. I recommend it to Americans and Italians. It’s time for everyone to think outside the box and visit some of Italy’s hidden (until now) treasures. Molise does exist and if you are looking for some more information on what you can do in Molise, I recommend you visit My Italian Diaries. Valentina has a passion for her country and has written two posts that highlight Molise. The first gives you six great reasons to visit Molise and the second, brings you to Civitacampomarano, where a local festival of street art is so beautifully done that it’s on my list of places to visit!

If you’d like to delve a bit more into the national joke, Il Molise non esiste, check out this blog post by Alex Sakalis. He goes into the beginnings and how Molise has turned this around to bring tourists into their region. He also highlights towns to visit through his own experience traveling to the least known region of Italy. After reading this, you’ll be intrigued enough to include Molise on your next Italian vacation.

At the beginning of the 20th century, Italians were leaving Il bel Paese in search of a better life and opportunities that Italy couldn’t offer them. It was an Italy that would have not made it onto everyone’s bucket list of places to visit in their lifetime. It was a different Italy that was suffering; causing many to leave their homeland and settle in new countries near and far.

Nowadays, things are very different. Italy still may not have the economy Italians would hope for, but it has come a long way. According to U.S. News and World Report, two Italian destinations are in the top 20 places in the world to visit. Almost everyone I speak to has either been there or plans to visit. Applications for dual citizenship have increased exponentially in the last few years. Many are seeking a place to retire or to visit and feel connected to their roots. Many hope to even be able to connect with relatives from their ancestors’ home towns. When they arrive, will there be generations still living there?

Although Italy is doing much better than at the beginning of the 1900’s, it is still hard to make a life there in many places, especially the south. Southern Italians have been making their way to northern cities for work for a while now. Even though it is still a move within the same country and Italy is relatively small, many Italians feel a deep attachment to their small towns and to their families. A cousin of mine said that he had moved north in the hopes of remaining in Italy. Luckily, he was able to find a job in the import-export business in Trieste and has been there now for seven years. Recently, I asked this cousin, Alessandro, about his decision to move north to get his perspective.

Alessandro was born and raised in Bojano, Italy. Bojano is located in the province of Campobasso, in the Molise region. Molise is the second smallest region in size and population. As of 2019, the population of Bojano was 7,829. Trieste’s population by comparison is 204, 267.

Here is my interview with Alessandro:

How was it growing up in Bojano? Growing up in Bojano was really nice. I really had a great childhood here. It was your average small town life, without the chaos of a large city. Everyone knows everyone, from the butcher to the mailman. It was a more tranquil life without all of the frenzy of the city. It was like living surrounded by your extended family. The air is cleaner and since Bojano is a hilltown, you can enjoy nature walks. It is easy to leave your car behind and use your bicycle more.

Did you ever think you would have to move to another region in Italy? Actually, no. It all happened very quickly. It was a sudden, unexpected move; one I didn’t have much opportunity to think about. I had always thought that Bojano was where I would grow old but in the end, everything changes. But that’s alright because I’m doing well here in Trieste and I have no regrets.

How did you decide on Trieste? I chose Trieste because my wife’s brother already lived here for some time. But this isn’t the real reason that we live here now. After I left Bojano, I worked as as substitute teacher in Udine and then Belluno. Later on, I had sent my resumé in the Trieste area and in the end, found my current job here.

How do you feel about living in Trieste? Trieste is an amazing city with mountains and sea so I felt comfortable right away after having lived in Bojano, in the foothills of the Matese Mountains. Trieste is very multicultural and also very livable. Initially, the triestini don’t treat you like you’re one of them as we would do in the south but once they get to know you, they are very friendly. There are also so many beautiful things to see here from the Piazza Unità d’Italia, the church of San Giusto to the many Austrian-style buildings; a reminder that Trieste once belonged to the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

*Interesting facts:

Trieste was the fourth largest city in the Austro-Hungarian Empire.
Trieste has been compared to New York due to its diverse ethnic populations.
From 1947-1954, the area of Trieste was called the Free Territory of Trieste, maintained under military occupation by the United States and Britain.

What are some things you like and dislike about living in Trieste? Honestly, I feel like I am doing so well here that there isn’t much I don’t like; maybe the food a little bit.

*Cultural note: If you didn’t know this already, the food in Italy varies from region to region and is very different from north to south. Italians generally have a soft spot for a nice typical, home-cooked meal that reminds them where they are from.

Was it difficult to integrate with the locals (triestini)? Were there times when you weren’t able to understand each other due to linguistic differences? As I said earlier, the triestini need some time to get to know you before they are really friendly and open with you unlike southerners who are friendly from the get-go. However, in the end, they are truly good people. They are very social and enjoy being together with their friends. Initially it was difficult to understand them because they speak often in dialect. After 7 years here I am able to understand them but I don’t really like to speak as they do. I accept that they speak the way they do but I just can’t feel comfortable speaking their dialect.

*Cultural note: There are many, many dialects in Italy. Every region has their own way of speaking and within the region, there could be as many dialects as there are towns! On a small island, there are three different dialects! Dialects differ more the further you travel so my cousin’s dialect is strikingly different from his new friends’ dialect. Not only can pronunciation be different but words can also be completely different. The one thing that I think many Italians will agree upon, no matter where they are from, is that their dialect is a part of what make them them and makes them feel a strong tie to their hometowns.

Alessandro and some friends out for a meal in Trieste

What are the things you miss the most about Bojano and how often do you go back to Bojano? I really don’t miss that much about Bojano; mostly my friends and family. I usually visit once or twice a year but my parents often come to visit me in Trieste as well.

Alessandro’s parents come to Trieste to visit him and his wife, Roberta

If you could go back to live in Bojano, would you? I don’t honestly think that I would right now, but who knows what the future holds?

It was nice to catch up with Alessandro. I’m glad that he is doing well in Trieste.

Many smaller towns in Southern Italy have been losing residents for some time now. Some town have even taken to offering up homes for 1 euro (there are some strings to this deal, however) to bring people and life back into their small towns. Tourism can also help, if more people visit, there will be a need for more jobs. Some regions, like Molise, might be next to be discovered by a new wave of tourists. Check out this post!

Enjoy this blog? Please spread the word :)